With 10 countries and 29,254 miles traversed, 2017 was my most active year of travel since 2013, although interestingly my mileage count for the year seemed low given the number of flights I took (19 in total). At the end of this post you can see summaries of previous years’ adventures and how they measure up. But 29,000 or so miles is nothing to sneeze at; in some ways this last year feels like it was much longer than a year. Here’s why, and what I did in 2017:

This post was originally published in 2018. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content. 

JANUARY: Florida, Ecuador

I started off 2017 in Florida at my (kind of) home base in Hollywood where I had spent a chunk of time in 2016. By mid-January, it was time to make a move, and that move was to the mountains outside of Cuenca Ecuador to live at Gaia Sagrada retreat centre; a place I discovered in late 2016 and to where I was returning.

FEB-MAY: Ecuador

The next four months were spent at Gaia Sagrada, where I assisted the manager in trade for a break on accommodation expenses, and informally continued my studies of ayahuasca and san pedro shamanism. It was an intense and all-encompassing position that required a lot of my energy through every two-week retreat.

So I didn’t spend much time “discovering” Ecuador, nor doing much work on my online business, which had been somewhat stagnant since I took to doing “shaman things” in Peru in late 2014.

But I did get around Ecuador a tiny bit during the five day breaks between retreats at the retreat centre. I visited Banos in the north, which is the adventure capital of Ecuador, and where I (sort of) bought a hotel for $29. I also visited Vilcabamba in the south; a popular “hippie town” with an interesting vibe that compares to my former home of Pisac Peru.

But the time soon came (inspired by an expiring Ecuadorian visa) for me to move on. By the end of May I was on a plane. Doors have been left open in Ecuador (and at Gaia Sagrada) for me to return, but to this day I’m not sure if it’s in the cards.

JUNE: Florida, (Toronto), Japan

The beauty of my (kind of) home base in Hollywood Florida at my friend’s house is that it’s a great jumping-off/landing point when traveling to/from South America. So after a couple of weeks of decompressing in Hollywood, I said sayonara to my boyfriend (with whom I’d been together since my arrival in Ecuador in 2016) who was jetting off to the west coast to earn some money while I jetted off to Tokyo (with a lightning fast layover in my hometown of Toronto ) for a house-sitting gig.

My arrival in Japan was an exercise in me proverbially coming up for air and taking stock of my online business, which had been relatively stagnant after three years of sitting on Andean mountaintops “doing shaman things”. What I saw wasn’t pretty.

JULY: Japan

Among other increased business activities such as redesigning my website and taking social media to a new level, I breathed new life into my dormant YouTube channel and started producing weekly travel vlogs. Tokyo was a perfect place to do it; it was eye candy for the camera and cocaine for the brain. Selected highlights included almost dying on Mount Takao, going to the Greatest Show in the History of Entertainment, and then having the wool pulled off my eyes in Akihabara.

I started to intellectually fall out of love with Japan after Akihabara, as I pontificated in my post Why I Could Never Life in Japan. But after almost two months in total in Japan, I managed to pull it all together with this (slightly more balanced) post.

AUGUST: Japan, Indonesia

I realized that in over 10 years of wandering the world, I almost never went somewhere without having my accommodation sorted out (and usually free accommodation at that). Bali was the first time I’d gone somewhere without having any innate connections, specific opportunities, or accommodation lined up.

But I went anyway, and it was fantastic. I hung with the monkeys, negotiated like a pro in the markets, hiked through rice terraces, and learned about the beautiful ceremonial practices of Balinese Hinduism. Oh yeah – and I visited Kuta to see a Balinese healer, which was a total comedy of errors (but the kind that made for a really funny post).

SEPTEMBER: Hong Kong, Macau, Indonesia

Coinciding with the expiration of my 30-day Indonesian visa was an opportunity to go to Macau to speak at a travel conference.

I stayed in Hong Kong for a week (and loved it – most of it), before taking a ferry over to Macau for the conference. The connections I made there paved the way for some opportunities for an upcoming trip to India that I’d booked after finding a mistake air fare.

After my quick sojourn in Hong Kong and Macau, I returned to Bali for what was supposed to be another month. Instead, the active volcano Mount Agung went into high alert, and although I was technically safe in Ubud, reports I’d heard from Ubud’s survivors of Mount Agung’s last eruption in 1963 didn’t make me want to stick around to find out, so I voluntarily evacuated. Turns out I evacuated a couple of months earlier than necessary, but the volcano did indeed start spewing ash which shut down the airport a few times.

I really enjoyed Bali on the whole, and am certainly curious to return….another time.

OCTOBER: Indonesia, Sri Lanka, India

Part of the reason evacuating from Bali was easy for me was because I had friends of friends (of friends) in Jakarta who were kind enough to open up their homes to me. I had no intention of writing about my three weeks in Jakarta which were pretty sedentary, but a few things happened that I found so amusing I simply had to share.

Then it was off to India (via a night in Sri Lanka). India was another destination that I chose without having much of anything organized save for a cheap flight. But after sending off a few emails and making some connections in Macau, my trip started to take shape. It began in Jaipur where I reunited with an old friend and landed in the lap of luxury, which continued on the Deccan Odyssey: the most luxurious train in the world.

NOVEMBER: India, Thailand

Even in the lap of luxury, everything started to go wrong for me, and my month in India (much of which was spent in Rishikesh) became a critical and pinnacle experience for what I suspect is going to be a big transition/transformation (still in progress). I’ll be pontificating more on this idea in 2018, as this is something that is unfurling by the day.

So it was with no small degree of enthusiasm that I left India in mid-late November on a plane bound for Chiang Mai Thailand, where I reunited with my boyfriend after six months apart. We found a sweet little condo to nest in for a wee while.

DECEMBER: Thailand

I’ll be writing a bit more about Chiang Mai in the coming weeks; but I also don’t have very much to write about Chiang Mai on the whole, since I did almost nothing noteworthy (from a travel blogger’s perspective). Instead I enjoyed all the creature comforts of this surprisingly bohemian city, ate amazing food, went to the gym, spent time with my boyfriend, and tended to some increasingly consuming issues of health and wellness (both physical and emotional).

It was an agonizing kind of bliss that capped off 2017 in the strangest of ways.

Summary Notes

For a year that started off in South America with a focus on plant medicine work, I didn’t expect to visit 10 countries; including seven Asian countries – all of which were new to me except for Thailand. Then again, it was a year full of unexpected surprises and new experiences. The easiest way to explain my current state of being is to say that it’s like every single aspect of my life has been thrown up in the air (lifestyle, location, health, relationships, career, etc), and I’m watching all the pieces float around and am waiting to see where they land. It’s simultaneously exciting and agonizing. 2018 is going to be a very interesting year. Stick around….I’m pretty sure it won’t be boring.

10 countries and 29,254 miles…..2017 is another one to go down in my own little history book.

Previous Annual Summaries

My First Four Years of Full-Time Travel (2007-2010, including Canada, Hawaii, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Australia, USA, Mexico, New Zealand, Spain, Germany, France, England, Scotland, Ireland, Nepal)

What I did in 2011 (13 countries, 73,000 kms, including New Zealand, Canada, USA, Sweden, Portugal, Spain, Switzerland, Czech Republic, Ukraine, Russia, China, Vietnam, Grenada)

What I did in 2012 (8 countries and 20,000 miles, including Grenada, St. Martin, BVIs, USA, Switzerland, France, England, Canada)

What I did in 2013 (12 countries and 29,000 miles, including Grenada, USA, Canada, England, Scotland, Holland, Norway, Denmark, Germany, Ukraine, France, Panama)

What I did in 2014 (7 countries and 34,000 miles, including Panama, USA, Canada, Peru, Spain, Gibraltar, Italy)

What I did in 2015 (6 countries and 35,000 miles, including Peru, Colombia, USA, Costa Rica, Canada, Bolivia)

What I did in 2016 (5 countries and 30,000 miles, including Peru, USA, Canada, Ireland, and Ecuador)

This post 10 Countries and 29,254 Miles: This was 2017! appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

This article was originally published in 2017, and has since been updated for accuracy of content and links.

Landscapes

In this article I’m focusing on the Andean regions of both countries (specifically the Sacred Valley in Peru, and the Ecuadorian regions around Cuenca and in the south), which is where I’ve spent the most time. But there’s a whole lot more to Ecuador and Peru than just mountains. Peru in particular is host to a stunning variety of landscapes, from beaches, to desert, to jungle, canyons, cloud forests, and of course, mountains. Ecuador doesn’t have quite as much variety, but it’s close. (And it has the Galapagos in its favour – a landscape all its own).

Mountains

For sheer drama and beauty of mountains, I found Peru to be more gratifying. The Sacred Valley is at a higher altitude than the Andes of Ecuador, and as such, the mountains feel much more majestic. But the energetic power of those mountains (if you believe in such things) is so strong that it can repel people as well. I’ve known many people who made the Andes of Peru their home for a time….only to be “chewed up and spit out” at the end. Heck – it even happened to me.

By contrast, the Ecuadorian Andes are a bit lower in altitude. Although certain regions like the Cajas outside of Cuenca remind me very much of the Peruvian Andes, for the most part I found the mountains of Ecuador to be a bit more…gentle. In a nice way, of course! At times, the Ecuadorian Andes felt more like glorified hills than mountains to me. (It’s a bit of a harsh analysis; but if we’re boiling things down to brass tacks of visiting Ecuador or Peru, the Peruvian mountains offer more bang for your buck).

Cost of Living

Speaking of getting bang for your buck, Peru wins hands-down if you want value for money spent. I believe the problem stems from Ecuador using the US dollar; a strong currency that inherently makes things more expensive. I saw the same phenomenon in Costa Rica and Panama; a general sense of surprise at the cost of living in what is supposedly a developing country.

If you’re careful in Ecuador and do as the locals do, you can live a decent life without spending US prices. But in general I would say that Peru is 50% cheaper to live and travel through…sometimes even cheaper than that.

Climate

What’s warmer, or colder, or wetter, or drier? Ecuador or Peru?

Yes.

They’re both warm, cold, wet, and dry. Given the altitude, in the Andes regions of both countries, there is a greater difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures than there is between “summer” and “winter”. In the heat of the day, if the sun is shining, temperatures can hit 20 degrees Celsius. At night, depending on the time of year, it’s in the low single-digits.

In truth, there isn’t even a “summer” or “winter” in the Andes; there’s the rainy season, and the rest of the year. The timing of the rainy season depends on who you talk to, but in both countries it is around the February-April time frame. And when it’s cloudy or rainy, the temperature can drop dramatically.

However, the lower in altitude you are, the warmer it gets. Head to Machu Picchu in Peru and you’ll feel much warmer than Cusco, or Pisac, or Urubamba. Similarly in Ecuador, the southern region of Vilcabamba has beautiful lush scenery and botanical life, along with a steadier and warmer climate than Cuenca.

Vilcabamba (Ecuador) vs. Pisac (Peru)

This whole post was inspired by a short trip I made to Vilcabamba in the south of Ecuador, while I was living in the rural Andes near Cuenca. Vilcabamba is considered to be the “sister town” to Pisac in the Sacred Valley of Peru – where I lived for over two years. So, long before setting foot in Ecuador, I’d heard all about Vilcabamba, and was keen to visit.

I was underwhelmed and unimpressed to say the least.

Now to be fair, I spent just a few days in Vilcabamba, and a few years in Pisac. So I probably didn’t give it enough of a chance. For me, Vilcabamba was kind of like that hit movie that everybody raves about and tells you is the best movie ever and that you must see it. More often than not when you eventually do see the movie, it can’t possibly live up to your expectations. Vilcabamba was that movie for me.

The markets in Vilcabamba didn’t even hold a candle to Pisac. The food wasn’t that great (or cheap). The people were generally nice, but I’ve heard of instances of violence towards foreigners that I never heard of nor experienced in Pisac. I’ll elaborate more on these concepts below.

Markets

In general, Cusco is the gateway to the Sacred Valley in Peru, as Cuenca is the jumping off point for the Cajas and other Andean regions of Ecuador. Similarly for small town life, Pisac (in Peru) and Vilcabamba (in Ecuador) are comparable. But in neither case did I find the local markets (as in, markets selling artisan goods) comparable.

Cuenca has an artisan market set up at plaza San Francisco, as well as a number of shops in the historical district selling wares like ponchos, alpaca sweaters, bags, blankets, scarves, and a variety of chachkas and souvenirs. There’s lots of selection…unless you’ve been to Cusco, with exponentially more open-air marketplaces and stores alike, with even more colour and variety of wares.

Similarly, Pisac features the largest market in the Sacred Valley; an enterprise of over 100 outdoor stalls that take up a huge square the size of a city block, and spills onto adjacent streets. It’s vibrant every day of the week, and on Sundays it kicks into even higher gear with locals coming in from surrounding rural towns to sell produce, handicrafts, meals, and more. Imagine my surprise when I rolled into Vilcabamba and found their market (Sundays only) to be about 10 tables with some beaded jewelry, crystals, homemade soaps, and dreamcatchers.

Andean culture

Whether you go to Ecuador or Peru, you’ll find Andean culture and history alive and well. The indigenous style of dress is similar, though perhaps a bit more colourful in Peru. It can be difficult in both places to connect personally with indigenous Andean people; sometimes due to their rural lifestyle and location, and sometimes due to their speaking other languages such as Quechua. But in general they’re friendly, generous, and genuine.

Expat Culture

The relative number of expats in the Andes of Ecuador or Peru are about the same. In Cuenca and Cusco there are similar percentages of expats, and fairly small percentages at that. Both Pisac and Vilcabamba are heavily visited and lived in by expats.

In Peru, most of the expats I met were travelers at heart, many of whom are spiritual seekers (with a heavy side of “hippie”). Ecuador sees a lot more American retirees looking for a cheap place to live, presumably because Ecuador has been the darling of International Living, who boasts Ecuador’s easy immigration laws for retirees on fixed pensions. In truth, the immigration laws aren’t much different in Peru; maybe the use of the US dollar in Ecuador makes American retirees feel a bit more secure. I’m not sure.

Attitude Towards Expats

This is where the Ecuador or Peru picture skews a bit. I overheard many more animated conversations about expats in Ecuador than I ever did in Peru. Cuenca’s “Gringolandia” neighbourhood of expats who (apparently) don’t particularly care to integrate with Ecuadorian culture is the recipient of much consternation. I’m not aware of a comparable neighbourhood in Cusco.

Both Pisac and Vilcabamba are bigtime expat communities – for better and worse. In both places if you want to, you can get by speaking only English (this is not a plus in my books; it just is what it is). The difference is the attitude of the locals towards expats in these particular towns. In Pisac, I always felt safe, even walking late at night outside of town by myself. In Vilcabamba, it’s discouraged. There have been armed robberies in and around Vilcabamba, and even a kidnapping a few years ago.

The source of this violence seems to be from a local population that has lost control of its own town. Expats moving in and opening businesses with expat-prices have made the cost of land – and the cost of living – impossible for some locals to keep up with. This has created resentment, and a bit of a dark cloud that sits over the place.

See also: The Irony of Expat Life; Pros and Cons

Level of Development

Some of these challenges with expats and local resentment might have something to do with the level of development in Ecuador or Peru. To my observation, Ecuador is a slightly more developed country than Peru. You see it in the way people dress, how houses are constructed, local infrastructure, and the cost of living. Although the differences are minute, it might be just enough to make Peruvian locals grateful for the influx of foreign money, and Ecuadorian locals resentful of it. This is a very broad observation though, which doesn’t apply across the board.

Ruins, and Architecture

History buffs (especially those intrigued by Incan culture and ruins) should head straight to Peru. There are ruins everywhere in Peru – some maintained, and some just sitting there unassumingly by the side of the road.

Peru even has Ecuador beat in simple architecture and aesthetics; something that I presume is ironically an adverse effect of Ecuador being a bit more developed. In the Peruvian Andes (especially in rural areas), a lot of houses are made from adobe bricks and natural materials. It’s sometimes a raw look, but quite uniform overall, and for me, a whole lot more charming (and environmentally friendlier).

Ecuador, by contrast, uses a lot of concrete blocks. Sometimes they’re covered over with some sort of cement and paint, often not. In both countries, the more rural the location, the less finished the look is, which stands to reason.

Plant Medicine: Ecuador or Peru

In my recent post about my adventures in shamanism over the last three years, I cited some of the differences in working with plant medicine (ayahuasca and san pedro) between Ecuador or Peru. The shamanic training process is different, as is the style of ceremonies. One is not better than the other. They’re just different. Ecuadorian ceremonies, for example, feature the use of a sacred fire, which is tended throughout the ceremony.

Due to the difference in the cost of living and currency, plant medicine ceremonies in Peru are generally cheaper than Ecuador. And because Peru is a much more known “destination” for san pedro and ayahuasca, you’ll get more selection. But simply roll into Pisac or Vilcabamba, and with a few questions (and some due diligence to ensure it’s a safe place and experienced shaman you feel comfortable with), you’ll fairly easily find a place to drink plant medicine.

Cuisine

Peruvian food is the “new black” in world cuisine. I’ve seen Peruvian restaurants dotted around the world, and there are people who travel to Peru just for the food. So it’s a tough standard for Ecuador to compare to. I think one of the secrets to Peruvian cuisine are the seasonings and local peppers they use.

Being immediately to the north of Peru, I was surprised that similar ingredients weren’t on the menu in Ecuador. Don’t get me wrong – some of the local soups are lovely, and if you like roast pork, you must head to a market or roadside stall for hornado. But for me, Peru comes out tops (by far) in the food department.

Ecuador or Peru? Moral of the Story

If you’ve made it this far, I think you’ll agree my conclusion is pretty obvious. If you want to visit the Andes, go to Peru.

I’ve often emphasized that travel is very contextual. When people ask me what my favourite country is, I preface any answer with an explanation that you and I could visit the very same place and have wildly different experiences. That’s because context is crucial; who you’re with, what you’re doing, and how you’re feeling at the time are equally – if not more – important than the place itself.

I had a different experience in Ecuador than Peru. Neither was better than the other – they were just different. So while I’ve tried to be as objective as possible in this analysis of visiting the Andes of Ecuador or Peru, something about Peru resonated with me more as a comprehensive destination. I may have had my heart broken in Peru, but on the whole I had a more colourful and vibrant life there.

Would I return to Ecuador? Sure. Peru? You bet. But if or when I return to either country, I won’t go in an attempt to recapture old times. They’re gone. I have many friends who I knew in Peru who returned there for subsequent visits, and they were uniformly let down by their favourite old haunts. Places change. People change. But in general, if you want an Andean mountain experience, book a ticket to Peru. You won’t be disappointed.

This post Visiting the Andes: Ecuador or Peru? appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

Let me tell you a bit about how all this happened, what it’s like to learn to be an ayahuasca and san pedro shaman, and where it’s all going.

This post was originally published in 2017. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content. 

Learning to be an Ayahuasca and San Pedro Shaman in Peru

When I landed in Peru for the first time in March 2014, I had no idea what the following year had in store. Sure, I had known about ayahuasca for years and had been quietly calling it into my life, so I knew I’d participate in a ceremony or two. But as one thing led to another, my life veered in a new direction, and I took up an apprenticeship with a shaman there. (If you want to read the whole scoop on how that happened, check out Becoming a Shaman).

What it’s Like to Apprentice With a Shaman

There is no actual manual or official process for this stuff – at least in Peru (we’ll explore some of the differences by country later on). And depending on the teacher (and the student), every apprenticeship is different.

Actually, if there were a manual, my life would have been much easier. I’m a smart girl; give me the textbook and I’ll study it, take the exam, and earn the accreditation. Blamo.

Instead, this apprenticeship was a very counter-intuitive process for me.

As with many spiritual endeavours, shamanism is not about book-learning or other such heady pursuits. Instead, it’s about things that are way more intangible. In fact, as I’ve learned (and am still learning), the less I try to be this or feel that, the more smoothly wisdom and knowledge comes. It’s about getting out of my head and honouring my intuition, which ultimately can’t be taught or learned in any conventional format.

Has this been frustrating for me? You betcha. But ultimately rewarding? Hell yes.

But…specifics. You probably want to know what I actually did as a shaman’s apprentice.

In Peru, I assisted my teacher with all his ceremonies and retreats. Logistically, people often need assistance during ceremonies. Depending on the ceremony (san pedro or ayahuasca), this can entail tasks like helping people to the bathroom, offering tissue if somebody is crying, and emptying puke buckets (mostly specific to ayahuasca ceremonies – a glorious job).

Aside from the logistics, the ceremony is spent singing medicine songs (known as icaros), which call in certain energies and spirits, protect the space, and help to move stuck energy. Icaros can be sung to the group in general, or to specific people, sometimes done in conjunction with body and energy work similar to reiki or massage.

As an assistant/apprentice, I learned many icaros and sang them as needed (to the group as a whole or to specific people). I was available to help people in need when my teacher wasn’t around, or when a female energy was specifically required. Sometimes it was a matter of answering questions, providing assistance, doing bodywork, or simply offering a much-needed hug.

When I wasn’t assisting my teacher with his ceremonies, I continued my apprenticeship by participating in ceremonies, both with my teacher and other curanderos (healers). I also did a few plant dietas, including one in the jungles of Peru with my teacher’s teacher. (See also: A Month in the Jungle: Doing a Plant Diet and Ayahuasca Retreat)

Moving on From Peru

Despite a very close relationship and reciprocal commitment between my teacher and I in Peru, it didn’t last. (See also: Apprenticeship Update: BIG Changes for The Professional Hobo)

It was a heartbreaking upheaval in my life, but one that ultimately had to happen. With a good dose of retrospect and wound-licking, I can now see how divine this turn of events was.

I’m honoured to have learned so many things from my former teacher in Peru. He spent his whole life in the pursuit of spirituality in various ways that married well in his unique work as a shaman. Among other things, he was an effective bridge between the western psychology of most participants, and the native South American medicines and cosmology. This allowed participants to get the most from the experience and integrate the lessons learned, so that the ceremony became a lasting form of healing and not just a “trip”.

In working with my former teacher, I gained an arsenal of experience and wisdom that serves me today, both in and out of ceremony.

When I left Peru, I also left behind any ideas I had of working with the medicine or becoming an ayahuasca and san pedro shaman. I knew that if I were meant to continue this work, I would be led back to it.

And so it was.

Continuing the Journey in Ecuador

Similar to Peru, it wasn’t plant medicine that drew me to Ecuador; it was a house-sitting gig. After a few months in the States after leaving Peru, I was offered a house-sit for a couple of months in Cuenca, and off I went.

My timing was impeccable, because a friend of mine who has worked and facilitated at a variety of ayahuasca and san pedro retreat centres, had just taken a position as manager of Gaia Sagrada, which just happened to be an hour outside of Cuenca where I was staying.

So I visited the retreat centre, and did a san pedro ceremony with the staff there. I liked the property and the people, and was offered a chance to work there. But after my experience in Peru, I was gun-shy. So I decided to do a retreat as a participant once I had finished house-sitting.

I ended up doing two retreats, and at the end of it, I committed to return a couple of months later as a staff member.

Learning to be a Shaman in Ecuador

The process of becoming an ayahuasca and san pedro shaman in Ecuador is very different to Peru. In Peru, it’s about doing plant dietas (a dieta being an intensive process involving weeks of isolation, a ridiculously simple diet, drinking special teas, and doing ayahuasca ceremonies). In Ecuador, it’s about doing vision quests, sun dances, and working with the elders. And although there is an official four-year process of vision quests and sun dances, there still is no manual or specific way to learn the art of shamanism.

I’ve been lucky in Ecuador, because the shamans at the retreat centre here have acknowledged my training and relationship with ayahuasca and san pedro, and thus have given me some great opportunities to assist and even help lead ceremonies, even though I’m not formally trained in the Ecuadorian way. And because the ceremonial format is a bit different in Ecuador (or at least among the Ecuadorian shamans I’ve worked with), it has been a great chance to learn even more about the various ways to hold a ceremony. In addition to singing in ceremony and performing certain blessings and prayers, I’ve also learned how to tend the sacred ceremonial fires – which is a pretty big deal.

So, my apprenticeship has continued whilst living in Ecuador. I’ve expanded my skill sets greatly, and also been able to bring some of my knowledge and practices that I learned in Peru to help and support retreat participants in new ways. I’ve learned new icaros from the shamans in Ecuador, and I’ve taught them some of my icaros from Peru. My apprenticeship is much more informal; instead of answering to one teacher, I have many to learn from, and I’m also learning that the ultimate teachers are the plants themselves (ayahuasca and san pedro).

Becoming a Healer

My former teacher in Peru was fond of telling people that there’s nothing to fix. We are already perfect as we are – lumps, bumps, and all. What he offered, was an opportunity for people to come home to themselves, and in so doing, to learn, to grow, to heal, and ultimately, to wake up.

This too, was a counter-intuitive process for me. For the longest time I couldn’t understand what my teacher meant when saying “there’s nothing to fix”. When I first arrived in Peru in early 2014 and started doing plant medicine (san pedro and ayahuasca) ceremonies, you could say I was a broken woman – physically and emotionally. I’d recently escaped an emotionally exhausting relationship, and I’d suffered a near-fatal accident a year prior. In my first six weeks of doing ayahuasca and san pedro ceremonies, I experienced immense – even miraculous – healing. I accomplished more than 10 years of psychotherapy could get close to, in addition to physical healing that I initially thought would be impossible. For example, the scars (not to mention the chronic pain) from my accident the year prior practically disappeared.

Is this not “fixing”? Well, no. Not entirely. To approach any healing process with an idea that we need fixing is to focus on what we feel is wrong with us. And as long as we continue to focus on what’s “wrong”, the more energy we give to that idea (of something being wrong, and needing fixing), and the less we have the opportunity to change that story.

On the premise that there’s nothing to fix, so follows that the healer doesn’t heal. In the arena of ayahuasca and san pedro healing, the “shaman” (which although I’ve used this term a few times now, I do so begrudgingly – see my note below) simply facilitates and holds space for the plant medicine to do its own work, and ultimately for the “patient” to heal themselves. This theory applies to most healing modalities; and any healer who insists that it is solely their own personal talents and efforts that heal people, should be given a wide berth in my opinion.

A Final Note About Being a “Shaman”

I’ve used the word “shaman” quite a bit in this post, and a few others as well. I do so because it’s an easily accessible term, but it’s also fraught with obscurity and can create a slippery slope for the “shaman” in question.

See, the word shaman is simply a catch-all term for a healer, more specifically a healer who uses indigenous healing arts. For some shamans, it’s holding ayahuasca and san pedro ceremonies. For other shamans, it’s working with other indigenous plants, or spirits, or elements, or energetic forms of healing.

So, to be a shaman actually doesn’t mean much of anything. And yet, it does. The sheer title of “shaman” catapults the healer in question to a sort of rockstar status, surrounded by intrigue and magic. This creates a slippery slope for the shaman, who can easily let all those accolades go to their head, at which point ego can work its way into the job. And once ego gets in there, it can be harmful for both the shaman and the patient in question. I’ve seen it happen – it ain’t pretty.

So please forgive me for even supposing that I am – or will be – a “shaman”. Maybe I am already one, or will become one. But truly, I’m just Nora, and I like it that way.

What’s Next for Nora

I have no idea what’s next. I’ve enjoyed my time in Ecuador, learning so much about ayahuasca and san pedro shamanism, and being given great opportunities to assist the shamans. But living and working at a busy retreat centre can be exhausting, especially with an online business to run as well.

As such, I’ve decided I will move on from Gaia Sagrada in June. I may well return, but for the moment, I need a breather, to take a step back and re-evaluate a few things.

In the same way that there’s no manual for becoming an ayahuasca and san pedro shaman, there’s no manual for life. One of my biggest challenges (and when successful, greatest gifts) has been to simply accept the present moment for what it is, without projecting into the future or dragging up stuff from the past.

I have no idea if I’m going to become a full-fledged ayahuasca and san pedro shaman. I don’t know if I’ll ever offer my own ceremonies. If I do, I don’t know if it will be in Ecuador, or Peru, or another country entirely. As much as living a life where my future is a giant question mark can be unsettling, it’s also a gift, and I’m accepting that gift with both patience and an open mind.

2019 Update: While working with plant medicines irrefutably changed my life, I don’t currently have any desire to return to my work as a “shaman”. This is for a variety of reasons, including concerns I have about the environmental sustainability of ayahuasca and san pedro, and my observations of people who are using it for the wrong reasons. But more than anything, I’m simply not called to it in the way that I once was. Perhaps it has served its purpose in my life….at least, for now. 

This post Learning to be an Ayahuasca and San Pedro Shaman appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

Well, that point came recently when I discovered that the owners of an eco guest house called la casa verde were giving away their place (yes, giving it away) in a raffle of sorts. So I had to show up and check out what my new potential home looked like.

Note: The giveaway is over and Win the Lifestyle site is debunked. You can still visit La Casa Verde; enjoy this article about Baños! 

This post was originally published in 2017. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content. 

About Baños

Located in the Andean highlands of Ecuador, Baños goes by the full name Baños de Agua Santa, which is Spanish for “Baths of Sacred Water”. But everybody calls it Baños for short….which is actually somewhat unfortunate because it’s also the Spanish word for bathroom.

Baños earned its name not because of toilets, but because of the plethora of famous hydrothermal springs that attract foreigners and Ecuadoreans alike to the area to enjoy the healing properties of these mineral-rich waters.

The hot springs are the byproduct of the ominous and often cloud-covered 16,450 feet tall Mt. Tungurahua, which is the highest active volcano in Ecuador. On a clear day, this snow-capped volcano is a sight to behold. (I caught sight of it just once, while driving by, and thus couldn’t get a picture for you. Maybe you’ll have better luck).

Being an active volcano (which had eruptions in 1999, 2006, 2008, 2010, and 2011, some of which necessitated evacuations due to ash), it’s wise to check the local conditions before coming. Luckily, la casa verde (my new hotel) is out of the “danger zone” of the volcano.

Perhaps because of the edginess of being near an active volcano, or perhaps because of the amazing mountains and lush nature surrounding the town, Baños is also the adventure capital of Ecuador – and quite possibly all of South America. You can go rafting, canyoning, zip lining, bungee jumping, mountain biking, kayaking, horseback riding, rock climbing, hiking, bridge swinging, and paragliding – for starters.

In my four short days in Baños, I managed to cover off zip lining, canyoning, hiking, and more – all for ridiculously cheap prices. And in case you’re worried about the safety aspect of high-adrenaline activities like throwing yourself off a bridge (for $10) in a place like South America, I can assure you that the quality of gear and attention to safety is paramount.

la casa verde (my new hotel)

The main reason for my visit to Baños was to check out la casa verde – the hotel I plan to win in their giveaway (which takes place in April 2017). It’s perfect.

The (New Zealand) owners of la casa verde built and operate the place as a truly eco-friendly establishment. It’s built of completely sustainable Ecuadorean materials, they work with the surrounding community to implement long-term sustainable building practices, their drinking water falls from the sky and is filtered, and they recycle/reuse everything they can. For example, instead of throwing away (or even recycling) bottles, they use them to create window features and garden pathways. Speaking of the garden, the current caretakers of la casa verde have turned the large river-side garden into a permaculture eden with avocados, mangoes, citrus trees, and more – all of which also help to prevent soil erosion into the river.

Would you like a personal tour of your potential new home? Check out the live Facebook video I did here!

…And They’re Giving it Away

Okay, okay. The giveaway isn’t just for me. I’ll give you a chance to win la casa verde yourself. When I first heard about the giveaway, I was suspicious. Why are the owners giving it away? Can they not sell it? What’s wrong with the place?

Nothing’s wrong with the place. It’s a very popular eco guest house with 11 rooms that are often full in advance. They’re not in debt, and the place is profitable. It’s currently leased (until May) to a couple who manages the place (along with a lovely Ecuadorian mother-son duo and the occasional work-trade volunteer), and it still turns a profit for the owners. So if you win la casa verde and aren’t interested in moving to Ecuador and managing a guesthouse, you could lease it to on-site managers and own/manage it from abroad if you wished. (Or you could turn around and re-sell it; apparently there are people interested in buying la casa verde).

The owners of la casa verde are originally from New Zealand, and want to spend more time with their families back home. They’ve simply decided it’s time to move on.

And although they could have simply sold the place, they like to do things unconventionally. They’re also launching an e-book called Back to Earth, and they’re using this giveaway to launch this new career. (Smart). So, when you buy a $29 raffle ticket to win la casa verde, you’re actually buying a copy of Back to Earth, and receiving a free raffle ticket. You can buy as many books (raffle tickets) as you wish; and the more you buy, the better a deal you get. I got five tickets for $129.

I’ve done the math. This giveaway is a great deal for the owners of la casa verde, and gives you and I a chance to “buy” a profitable eco guest house in a popular destination for just $29. It’s a win-win for everybody.

You can read more about the fine print in their terms and conditions and FAQs on their giveaway site Win the Lifestyle.

Baños Town Centre

The town of Baños itself is admittedly not entirely my cuppa tea. Because tourism is the mainstay of Baños, it’s besieged with hostels, restaurants, bars, and tour operators – all fighting for a piece of the pie. The architecture and feel of the place is not particularly attractive (to me) on the whole. It doesn’t hold a candle to the charm of Cuenca – which stands to reason, since Cuenca is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Granted, with so many restaurants to choose from, I ate some epic meals in Baños that put Cuenca’s foodie scene to shame.

But the appeal of Baños is not in the town centre; it’s in the surrounding mountains and nature, which is easy to reach by taxi (for a few bucks), bus (for a few cents), or by foot (for free). The place is easy to navigate, and the town centre is relatively flat so it’s easy to walk anywhere despite the relatively high altitude above sea level.

This is one of the reasons why I like la casa verde; it’s just out of the fray of town. It’s an easy 20-30 minute walk (or $1.50-$2 taxi ride), and provides a beautiful refuge from the noise and hectic pace of Baños. If you’re tired of adventuring, you can easily pass away a day sitting on the terrace, or cozied up on the couch overlooking the river, or enjoying a massage. Or all of the above.

Getting to/from Baños

Baños is a three-hour bus ride from Quito, five hours from Guayaquil, and seven hours from Cuenca. The direct bus to/from Cuenca costs $10, and leaves around 8:45am (both directions). You can also catch a bus to/from the nearby town of Ambato, which connects to just about anywhere with frequent buses.

Want to Own a Hotel for $29? Get Your Ticket Now!

The giveaway to win la casa verde closes on April 15^th, 2017. They’re only selling a limited number of tickets, and if they sell out earlier, they’ll do the draw earlier. So time is of the essence. Want to win a hotel for $29? Too bad….unfortunately the raffle is long done and the hotel has changed hands.

But….la casa verde is still very much alive and well, and I highly recommend it as a lovely place to stay if you are visiting Baños Ecuador.
Click here to book your stay now!

Places to Eat and Things to Do in Baños Ecuador

With a huge selection of restaurants and activities on offer, here are a few things I did when I was here – places you might like to look into if you come for a visit yourself:

Activities

Canyoning (MTS Adventure) – A big highlight of my trip to Baños. Hiking in the rainforest, rappelling down waterfalls, and more. They offer a variety of trips and activities. I did the half-day canyoning adventure at Rio Blanco. Good for beginners, and just enough fun to get your feet wet (pun intended).

Zip Lining (Puntzan Canopy) – There are lots of places to go zip lining in Baños. I liked these guys because you get to do six different zip lines of varying lengths. This way you get a chance to do it a variety of different ways – upside down, superman, tandem, etc.

Also, on my last day I got totally rained out and couldn’t bring myself to do anything. However….I had some of the more iconic activities planned – things that you’re not supposed to miss when you visit. I missed them. But that doesn’t mean you should! Here they are:

Casa del Arbol – An iconic Baños experience, where you sit on a traditional wooden swing that flies out over a cliff’s edge. Most people who have been to Baños have a picture of them on this swing – and every picture looks exactly the same (ie: amazing). Despite the touristy kitschy-ness of it, I still would have gone if it didn’t rain.

Vuelo del Condor – Touted as the biggest adrenaline rush you can get for $10.

Waterfalls – They’re everywhere. The most popular and not-to-be-missed are the “diablo” waterfalls. You can get there by bus or taxi, or you can rent a bike and cruise downhill all the way there, passing by various zip lines and hiking spots that might entice you to stop and enjoy along the way. (You can get a taxi/truck back up the hill with your bike to return).

Eating

Quilombo – An Argentinean restaurant with great ambiance and fab food. NOT for vegetarians! A bit pricey….best saved for a special meal with great wine.

Arte Cafe & Te – I went to this place a few times. The crepes (savoury and sweet) are out of this world. The decor an ambiance is delightful. And the coffee…organic, roasted in-house, and served up a variety of ways. Best coffee shop in town.

Sativa Studio Cafe – Vegetarian cafe with a small but eclectic menu, lovely health tonics, and a beautiful atmosphere.

Stray Dog Brewpub – Fabulous artesanal beers, and great food. A bit pricey, but well worth it.

This post la casa verde in Baños Ecuador: I Came, I Saw, I Bought a Hotel for $29 appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

Come along for the journey! I’m recapping all that was 2016 for better and worse.

This post was originally published in 2017. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content. 

January – February: Peru

I rang in the new year in my cozy house in the Sacred Valley in Peru; a place that had been my home base for almost two years. I continued to work with my teacher as his assistant with plant medicine ceremonies. I also did a few excursions, notably to The Ruins of Tipon (A Marvel in Irrigation).

To make space for my shamanic pursuits, I was also in the process scaling down my online activities (and thus, income). Interestingly, I didn’t feel the pinch, and it inspired me to reflect on past incomes and lifestyles and write about Lifestyle Inflation (How Earning Money Sucks the Life Outta You).

From January through April, I was also running around like a decapitated chicken collecting and translating, notarizing, etc a dizzying array of documents required to apply for residency in Peru.

March: Canada, Ireland

I won a trip to Ireland! Yessiree, I won a trip, through a random sweepstakes. The trip included flights, accommodation, and rental car for two people, departing from Canada. There was no contest in deciding who to invite; I took my Mum.

So I hopped on a plane from Peru to Canada to pick Mum up and off we flitted through Ireland for a week of incredible scenery, beautiful drives, a few pints, and lots of indulging in the melodic Irish accent – which is probably my favourite accent, and one I can’t help but imitate when I’m in the presence of it.

April-June: Peru

I returned to Peru with a(nother) suitcase of odds and ends to facilitate my “nesting” process there. Unfortunately, a surprising and heartbreaking turn of events awaited my arrival. The day I got back I was informed by my teacher/landlord/boss/friend that our arrangement was over. I had two weeks to move out, I lost all the efforts (and funds) expended to get my residency, and I felt pretty lost and confused.

Thus was triggered a massive process of healing for me, which lasted a few months. (Months that, with a dose of hindsight, flew by, but of course in the throes of it I was a total mess).

But I had people and angels alike looking out for me. I was offered places to stay, warm company, and lots of support. Knowing that I would soon be hitting the road again in a proverbially homeless way, I also needed to kick up my income again, and as if by magic, I was offered a new monthly column at Ingle International, in addition to my longstanding “Dear Nora” column on CreditWalk.

June-August: USA (Florida)

By mid-June, my Peruvian visa was running out, and I knew I had to cut myself loose from Peru in order to continue healing. So I left Peru, as well as my ideas of working with plant medicine, knowing that I would be led back to one or the other (or both) if it were meant to be.

I capped off my 2+ years in Peru with a hike to Mount Pitusiray with the first two friends I made with in Peru. It was a trip full of poetry, and a few tears shed amongst the three of us.

From Peru, I chose to “land” at the house of a friend I’ve known for over 20 years, who always keeps me laughing and with whom I can share anything. That friend lives in south Florida (Hollywood, to be exact), and two months with her were paramount to getting back on my feet again. I’m ever grateful to her for everything she did for me in that time, and for helping me see the levity in it all.

And as anticipated, my time in Florida was fraught with lessons and emotions – old and new. I was curiously amused at myself when I experienced many of the same core fears and challenges that plagued me (and most travelers) when I started traveling so many years ago now. Here’s a post about these challenges, as well as my quirky life in Florida: Hobo Update: Relearning Travel’s Inherent Lessons.

August: Canada

Before I left Florida I just had to stop in to meet the Anatomie crew (designers of my favourite travel clothing) and stock up on a few new pieces. Then, I returned to Canada to visit family and friends for a few weeks, and to celebrate my 40^th birthday, along with my two oldest friends who were turning 40 at the same time. We did the spa, partied it up in Niagara Falls, and topped it off with some winery tours. We even got matching tattoos!

September: Ecuador

I arrived in Ecuador (a new country for me) in early September for a house-sitting gig, and I loved it. I was in Cuenca, which is similar to Cusco in Peru (but better).

When I wasn’t taking in the sites, foods, and pace of life, I was taking a hard look at my business in search some new inspiration. I participated in a daily challenge to get me thinking about these things, and out of it popped the idea to start a new video podcast (or vlog – a term I’m reluctantly acclimatizing to). You can learn more about what led me to this in my first episode, here: Stairway to Freedom.

October: Ecuador

My house-sitting gig ended mid-October, at which point I headed to a plant medicine retreat centre about an hour outside of Cuenca in the mountains. My introduction to the place was quite serendipitous, and it was a way for me to say “hello” to plant medicine again.

I participated in two consecutive retreats there over the next month or so, and was given countless signs that I was in the right place, and I was encouraged to pursue my shamanic endeavours there.

I also filmed and published my second popular vlog: Fun Facts You Didn’t Know About The Professional Hobo.

November: Ecuador

As November drew to a close, so too did my Ecuadorian visa. After almost three months in Ecuador, I gained a unique sense of the place. Overall I loved every part of it. But there were a few things that confused me about the place, which I wrote in a post called Cuenca Ecuador: A City of Confusing Contrast.

Before I left, I was invited to return to Gaia Sagrada in the new year to volunteer and help run the place. The shamans all expressed their desire for me to return and continue to work with them, which was heartwarming.

So after packing my stuff (See Vlog Episode 3: Travel Packing – How to Pack For Full-Time Travel), I said “see ya later” (instead of “goodbye”) to Ecuador and my new friends there, with intentions of returning in January on an extended visa.

December: USA (San Diego, LA, Florida)

Where to go for the 2016 holiday season? After the amazing time I had in Florida with my friend earlier in the year, the choice seemed easy. Back to Florida!

But I wasn’t just staying local this time; shortly after releasing my annual Giant Travel Gear Roundup of travel clothes/gear/services/books/etc I’ve tested throughout the year, I hopped on a plane to visit a friend in San Diego for a week, and another friend in LA for a few days.

The rest of the month was spent in Florida, visiting with a variety of friends from other lands who also thought that spending the holiday season in Florida was a pretty fine idea.

What’s Next?

That’s a good question. At the moment, I’m still in Florida, but in a few weeks I’ll be returning to Ecuador to spend a few months (up to six) at Gaia Sagrada. I don’t know where all this plant medicine work will lead, but I also don’t need to know. I’ll stay there as long as it feels good, and I’ll move on when it’s time. I’m pretty zen about it at the moment!

Previous Annual Summaries

My First Four Years of Full-Time Travel (2007-2010, including Canada, Hawaii, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Australia, USA, Mexico, New Zealand, Spain, Germany, France, England, Scotland, Ireland, Nepal)

What I did in 2011 (13 countries, 73,000 kms, including New Zealand, Canada, USA, Sweden, Portugal, Spain, Switzerland, Czech Republic, Ukraine, Russia, China, Vietnam, Grenada)

What I did in 2012 (8 countries and 20,000 miles, including Grenada, St. Martin, BVIs, USA, Switzerland, France, England, Canada)

What I did in 2013 (12 countries and 29,000 miles, including Grenada, USA, Canada, England, Scotland, Holland, Norway, Denmark, Germany, Ukraine, France, Panama)

What I did in 2014 (7 countries and 34,000 miles, including Panama, USA, Canada, Peru, Spain, Gibraltar, Italy)

What I did in 2015 (6 countries and 35,000 miles, including Peru, Colombia, USA, Costa Rica, Canada, Bolivia)

This post 5 Countries and 30,000 Miles: This Was 2016! appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

There is a woman sitting outside of an auto parts shop on a plastic stool, cracking open walnuts with a sledgehammer.

Beyond her is a man standing on the sidewalk with a plastic bucket full of freshly plucked raw honeycombs for sale.

Just inside a dark storefront, llapingachos (Ecuadorian potato cakes) are sizzling, alongside a pot of steaming tamales and another wok of pork pieces.

This post was originally published in 2016. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content. 

A woman in indigenous dress walks by me with a basket over her arm filled with baked goods.

As I walk, every three doors I pass by a panaderia (bakery) pumping out the most pleasant (and simultaneously agonizing) smell in the world: that of freshly baked bread.

Just outside the fresh market there is a pot of burning palo santo (a form of Andean incense with shamanic cleansing properties), and vendors of all sorts are selling random items like Ecuadorian flags and shorts, sandals, leggings, bags of avocados and mangoes, lottery tickets, and brooms.

On my way home from the market, another indigenous woman is standing by a wheelbarrow filled to the brim with perfectly arranged strawberries, apricots, mandarins, grapes, cherimoya, and avocados.

Another woman, toddler in hand, is standing on the corner with a large basket filled with bags of homemade chifles (fried plantain slices – like potato chips laced with crack; they’re very addictive) and potato chips.

A man bumps into her on his way through the intersection, balancing a long pole on his shoulder with bags of caramel corn hanging off it.

And every afternoon a man parks on my street with a cart full of water coconuts, strawberries, guavas, and coconut pieces.

Life in Cuenca is alive and well, and the hum of so many different walks of life is tangible.

Since my introduction to Cuenca, I stayed in El Centro for six weeks. It’s an intriguing place, and I easily could have stayed much longer. However, I’m not sure it’s a place I’d like to live (like, “forever” kind of live). To be honest, the place kind of confuses me….and intrigues me at the same time.

Confused yet? Join the club. Here are some further observations I’ve had in my six weeks of calling Cuenca “home”.

Food: Meh?

My description above is largely centred around food and street vendors. One of the rumours I heard on arrival is that Ecuadorian street food is largely non-existent. This of course, isn’t true, but it’s a far cry from SE Asia’s food carts with freshly made delicacies like pho and pad thai.

Another common sentiment about Ecuadorian food is that it’s boring. I met up with one expat who expressed a sore disappointment at the restaurants in Cuenca, saying she doesn’t find the food inspiring.

I’ll admit, Ecuadorian cuisine (what I had of it) pales in comparison to that of its neighbour to the south (Peru). But I had some lovely encebollados (soups), cazuelas (casserole/stews), and ceviche de camarones (an interesting form of ceviche with cooked shrimp that reminded me of a watered-down shrimp cocktail – which tastes better than it sounds).

My response to the woman’s complaint about Ecuadorian cuisine being boring? For boring, she should try Panama or Costa Rica. (Sorry, guys).

Interestingly, there are a lot of restaurants of varying cuisines in Cuenca – notably Italian, Mexican, and American. Many of these restaurants aren’t just for expats; in fact I often saw more Ecuadorian faces than foreigners. And in some cases, given the high menu prices, I found it a bit confusing.

Confusing Cost of Living

In my first post about Cuenca, I mentioned the cheap cost of living along with the use of the US Dollar. As I spent time in Cuenca, I found an increasingly conflicting diversity of prices.

I could buy a week’s worth of vegetables and an obscene amount of exotic fruit at the fresh market for $10. And then I could go to a cafe and spend $3 on a cappuccino, and later to a restaurant with $15 entrees – American prices in a developing country. And although you’d think these cafes and restaurants would only be attended by expats, instead they were filled with Ecuadorians.

The cost of living in Ecuador is certainly higher than in Peru, where they use the Peruvian Sol for currency. Many of the same items in markets and grocery stores cost roughly the same – in Soles, which is 1/3 of the value of the dollar.

I wonder if it’s the use of the US Dollar. I saw a similar situation in Panama, where the average wage wasn’t that high, but the super-mall full of designer stores (sporting American prices) was consistently full to capacity, with Panamanians. I also found Costa Rica (with the widely used US Dollar) had similar prices to the States, and I wondered how the locals could afford it – but somehow they do.

Safety, Walkability

Although I heard that the local sentiment towards foreigners can be shaky in Ecuador, I saw more animosity expressed between expats than coming from locals in Cuenca. I always felt safe walking at any time of day, and I found myself out at night a few times, both alone and with people, and felt no threats.

However. Shortly before I left Cuenca, I hit the town with a few friends to some bars. Something was slipped into one of my friend’s drinks. Although she made it home before something really awful could have happened, she fell unconscious on her way inside, requiring a hospital trip and stitches, where they took blood and confirmed that she had drugs in her system.

So although I was ready to wax poetic about how safe Cuenca is, I must temper any glowing review with a reminder that in any urban setting there is a higher propensity towards crime, and that educated caution and street sense are a traveler’s best friend. (See also Travel Safety for Women)

Exhaust and Noise

Not to be a miss-poopy-pants, but it’s worth noting that a certain level of noise comes with staying in Cuenca’s El Centro. There are some places tucked up and facing away from busy streets, but I was living on the third floor pretty much overlooking a busy intersection.

So, the car alarms. Car alarms! In my experience in South America (which so far has been Peru, Colombia, Bolivia, and Ecuador), I have observed that people like their car alarms. And that most car alarms seem to be hair-triggered. Just for a giggle, one day I counted out a 90 second time frame. Five car alarms (different ones), all rang out their cheery tune for varying lengths of time. It’s far from harmonious.

Other noise-filled delights that come with staying in (my part of) El Centro include competing discos and karaoke bars on weekends, and the ever-present low sickly growl of the buses lumbering along.

The buses are another thing entirely. These things consistently spew black clouds of exhaust. The backs of all the buses are black with it. I noticed that many people who work outside in the streets wear masks over their nose and mouth, and rightly so; I developed something of a smoker’s cough after my first couple of weeks in Cuenca.

But there’s hope. Once the Tranvia (a tram system currently under construction) gets underway, apparently there will be no buses at all in El Centro.

Now, I must temper my complaints of noise and pollution with the fact that I prefer living rurally. I love the pace and hum of urban life, but when given the choice I prefer to relax in nature. (The luxurious kind of nature, that is, with wifi and stuff).

When Dyanne was giving me the orientation for my house-sitting gig for her, I remarked on the noise and pollution. She said she’d just come from Vietnam, so if anything, Cuenca was quieter and cleaner. All things are relative.

So it’s quite possible that my tolerance for things like noise and fumes is lower than others. If I return to Cuenca, I would look for a place in El Centro that is up and out of the way of excessive noise/exhaust, and if I couldn’t find that, I’d find a place on or just south of the river Tomebamba.

Drinkable Water

It’s relatively common knowledge that the tap water in Cuenca is safe for drinking. This is because Cuenca’s water supply comes from the nearby lakes of the Cajas region, in the mountains. Most of Ecuador’s tap water isn’t potable, so the idea that Cuenca’s is, is met with a healthy dose of skepticism among visitors.

Because I drink a lot of water, I sterilized small jugs of it with my SteriPEN, just in case. But I thought nothing of brushing my teeth with it, washing my produce in tap water and not drying it, etc. And I’m pleased to say I felt no ill effects. Unlike, other places. In Peru for example, I suffered multiple parasites; oh the joy. (See also: Dealing With Parasites: A Guide to Clean Water Around the World)

INTERESTING FACTS AND PLACES

Here are some random things I learned or discovered while living in Cuenca:

The Home of Panama Hats

Panama hats are 100% Ecuadorian. These straw hats have been crafted in Ecuador dating back to the 1600’s. In the early 1800’s, when exporting these hats, everything from this part of South America first went to the Isthmus of Panama (pre-canal) for shipping. The hats ended up acquiring the name of their point of international shipping, instead of their actual country of origin. But Ecuadorans quietly know the truth.

I learned this because I took two city-bus tours of Cuenca on a two-day ticket. Formerly not one to embrace highly touristic experiences, I’ve actually found that city tours can provide a nice overview, and go to a few places I might not otherwise see on my own (such as the El Turi lookout), and in some cases, you get an additional surprise.

One such surprise was that we visited the Panama Hat museum – a place I surely wouldn’t have gone to on my own, but am all the more enriched to have seen. It’s a small miracle that, with my love of fedoras (they’ve practically become my trademark), I escaped without buying one.

Broken Bridge

In 1950, the flooding Tomebamba river took out a large bridge. It was never rebuilt, for reasons I couldn’t decipher – procrastination? Tribute to history? Found a better place to build a new bridge? All are possible. Now, Puente Roto (Broken Bridge) is an interesting (even aesthetically pleasing) landmark that is also a popular meeting place in Cuenca. I even filmed my last vlog there.

Hot Pool Oasis

Just outside of Cuenca is the village of Banos (not to be confused with the larger and popular town of Banos, further north in Ecuador). What both of these places hold in common, however, are their hot-springs.

Piedra de Agua is a spa in Banos (Cuenca) not to be missed. I went twice. To get the full effect you need to drop $35 on the full spa circuit (they have 2-for-1 specials on Mondays if you bring a friend), which includes steam room, two different types of mud, another kind of steam, and then some underground hot and cold pools you can alternate to your heart’s content while sipping some lovely juice concoction.

If your budget is tight, then for $6 you can chill out in the large outdoor hot pool as long as you wish.

Where to Stay in Cuenca

Personally, I stayed (many times over the months ensuing since writing this article) at Del Parque Hotel and Suites which is oh so perfectly located overlooking the main square. The rooms are gigantic, well-appointed, and charming. Check out some other options here: 

Things to do in Ecuador

On the main square of Cuenca, you’ll find a few double-decker tour buses offering tours. I highly recommend taking one of these tours to orient yourself to the city! It’s a great way to cover a lot of territory, learn about the history and people, and access some great vantage points for pictures. Here are some other ideas:

This post Cuenca Ecuador: A City of Confusing Contrast appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

This post was originally published in 2016. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content. 

I recently did Natalie Sisson’s 10 Day Freedom Plan Blog Challenge. Because, although I embody the lifestyle many people would associate with freedom, after 10 years of being proverbially homeless, and after a recent life shakeup, I’m feeling a wee bit lost.

Freedom means something different to every person, and I’ve come to realize our definition of freedom can change as we progress through our lives.

And right now, I’m kind of looking for the next “big thing” for me to sink my teeth into, and to give me that extra dose of inspiration to get out of bed each morning.

Although the blog challenge didn’t give me my next “big thing” on a silver platter, it did help me clarify what’s important to me, what elements I’d like to have in my life in terms of location and daily rhythm/activities, and how to be more productive.

One of the blog challenge requirements was to share my daily posts. I published them in a separate personal online journal (since I was nervous to clutter this site with my overly random ramblings), and I shared them on Twitter and my personal Facebook account.

Honestly, I really didn’t want to.

But I’m glad I did, because the conversations that my raw self-observations inspired were surprising and amazing. Apparently I’m not the only person who feels disconnected, uninspired, and a bit lost! And, I’m not the only location independent entrepreneur who is reevaluating my business and lifestyle – which, to me, seemed like sacrilege (I mean, everybody wants this lifestyle right? Why on earth might I want to change it?).

One of the suggestions given to me through the blog challenge was to start a vlog. My Youtube channel has about 65 videos that I’ve produced and uploaded since I started traveling full-time in 2007. Some of them, in retrospect, are despicably amateur, despite a distant former life in the tv business. About four years ago, I gave up on the video thing, since the time and effort to produce and edit them was too onerous.

But vlogging is a bit different, and chewing on the idea alone put a new pep in my step.

So, I’m giving it a shot!

Once a month (for now), I’ll upload and publish a new video with some random musing by yours truly. I have lots of ideas of what to discuss, including stories (like what really happened in Peru), philosophical musings (like what is home to a Professional Hobo), lifestyle wonderings (like is a location independent career limiting or liberating), and more, including whatever crazy adventures I’m up to at the moment.

So without further ado, please enjoy my first ever vlog(!), introducing how I started my venture into this new media format, what “Freedom” really means, and what I’ve been up to for the last few months.

To be honest, I’m already a bit embarrassed by this video. So I promise….they will get better.

Can’t see the video? Click here to watch it on YouTube.

This post Stairway to Freedom (Vlog Ep. 1) appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

She responded with an enthusiastic offer to house-sit for her and take care of her cat, since she was planning to explore Eastern Europe for almost two months in September.

And so….here I am, living in Cuenca, Ecuador!

Here is some information and my first impression of this (spoiler alert: very cool) place!

This post was originally written in 2016, and has since been updated for accuracy of links and content.

Cuenca, Ecuador: Basic Information

As soon as I arrived in Cuenca, I saw many similarities to Cusco, Peru – from the architecture, to the altitude, and general way of life. With a population of about 500,000 it’s a bit larger than Cusco, but here in the centre of the historical district where I’m staying, it actually feels smaller. This could be due partly to the ease of navigation, with streets organized in a lovely grid pattern and without too many hills to climb (much unlike Cusco).

The historical centre (known affectionately as El Centro) is also a UNESCO World Heritage site, due to the prolific historical buildings (of the Spanish colonial era), and so being here, and living here, feels kind of….special.

Geography and Climate in Ecuador

There are four main rivers (the confluence of which led to Cuenca’s name), all of which ultimately flow into the Amazon. The most significant river, four blocks from my place, is the Tomebamba, which marks the south end of the historical centre. It’s very walkable, with lots of green space to enjoy – something I’m very grateful for.

Due to the altitude of 2,500 metres (8,200 feet) above sea level, the temperatures are relatively steady throughout the year. Known for its “eternal spring” climate, Cuenca’s daily highs can get up to about 20 degrees Celsius, but the daily mean is closer to 15 degrees, with nightly lows around (or below) 10 degrees.

Speaking of green space, Cuenca is interspersed with parks. By the river there is a lovely little park, adorned with wooden sculptures and even a “playground” for adults with various forms of exercise equipment.

And given the altitude, the strength of the sun is not to be underestimated. I suffered more than a few sunburns in Peru because of this, and thus, I was intrigued by this “sun meter” to warn people of its strength on any given day.

Where I Live

I’m staying in El Centro, which, although a bit noisy with traffic and weekend discos, makes for a convenient walk to everything I need.

I’m taking care of a sweet little cat, who loves cuddling and spends most of her time on my lap while I work. And whenever I need to stretch my legs, I’m a short walk from Parque Calderon, with its famed cathedrals, lots of restaurants, and a beautifully manicured park.

Where to Stay in Cuenca

If you don’t have accommodation lined up in the form of a house-sitting gig, and you’re not planning on staying long enough to walk around in search of an apartment, then check out what Booking.com has to offer below! Personally, I have stayed (many times) at Del Parque Hotel and Suites which is oh so perfectly located overlooking the main square. The rooms are gigantic, well-appointed, and charming. 

Street Markets in Cuenca

Flower vendors are abundant throughout Cuenca, especially at the main market near Parque Calderon, which National Geographic named the #1 outdoor flower market in the world. For such a title, I would have expected it to be larger than it is, but the abundance of orchids, roses, and exotic flowers makes up for its size.

I’m also close to the main fresh market (mercado), a three storey building with fresh meat and fish in the basement, prolific fruits and vegetables on the main floor, and prepared food on the upper level. Much like Peru, mercados like these are full of stalls run by various mamitas and overflowing with whatever is in season at the moment – which is a lot. My morning smoothies (which I prepare at home) are filled with any combination of papaya, mango, guava, strawberries, blackberries, soursop, avocado, citrus, and more. I purchased more than a week’s worth of exotic fruit and vegetables for just under $10.

Upstairs at the market, you’ll find pigs. A lot of them. If you like pork, don’t be turned off by these beauties on blatant display, because a $3 plate of hornado will fill you up with pork, corn (called mote), delicious fried potato cakes (called Llapingacho – an Ecuadorian staple in the highlands), and some veggies.

Cost of Living in Cuenca, Ecuador

Although Ecuador uses the U.S. dollar, it’s generally (thankfully) not synonymous with U.S. prices (as seems to be the case in Panama). You can get a local lunch for $2-4, and a fresh juice concoction at the market for 50 cents. After currency conversion, I found the prices to be generally in line with Peru (though at times more expensive).

From what research I’ve done so far, a 1-bedroom apartment in El Centro will cost about $350/month (prices vary with location, size, and amenities), and a bit less outside of El Centro. This lower cost of living, along with a relatively easy immigration process and decent healthcare, has made Ecuador (and Cuenca in particular) a hot destination for expat retirees.

(See also: The Irony of Expat Life; Pros and Cons)

Things to do in Cuenca

On the main square, you’ll find a few double-decker tour buses offering tours. I highly recommend taking one of these tours to orient yourself to the city! It’s a great way to cover a lot of territory, learn about the history and people, and access some great vantage points for pictures. Here are some other ideas:

Getting to Cuenca

At the time of writing this, Cuenca’s airport was closed for renovations (it’s open again), so I was relegated to taking the bus from Guayaquil – Ecuador’s largest city, near the coast. I was initially not looking forward to the 4-hour ($8) bus ride, but was pleasantly surprised with the scenery, which changed frequently as we climbed from sea level to Cuenca’s relatively high altitude. We went through humid planes, cloud forests, and eventually high Andean vistas that reminded me very much of Peru.

But you needn’t go through the hassle of the bus ride from Guayaquil (which isn’t a particularly exciting place to visit anyway); you can fly directly into Cuenca, and the airport is a stone’s throw from the hustle and bustle of life in Cuenca Ecuador.

My Two Months in Cuenca

I don’t have a tick-list of things to do while I’m here, other than to experience the daily pace of life, visit with some friends (both old and new, local and expat), continue to improve my Spanish language skills, and learn about the ways and means of life in this beautiful part of the world.

I also have an ever-growing list of online and business tasks to accomplish, and quite frankly, I’m still getting back up on my feet after my life upheaval in Peru earlier this year. So for me, this house-sitting gig in Cuenca is the perfect chance for a continued personal retreat, introspection, and a bit (okay, more than a bit) of work for good measure.

Given my location independent lifestyle, I am very blessed to set up shop wherever in the world I choose. To have this opportunity to live in Ecuador for a few months is something I’m grateful for every day.

You May Also Like…

My Experience After Two Months: Cuenca Ecuador: A City of Confusing Contrast

How To Travel On A Budget: 14 Creative Tips That No One Talks About

The Creative Guide to Free or Cheap Accommodation

This post My Introduction to Cuenca, Ecuador appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!