This post was originally published in 2014. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content.

It All Started With an Accident

As you may have read in my post about the cost of full-time travel in 2013, it was a tragedy-filled and expensive year for me. One of the main reasons for this was a head-on collision that I survived (my (ex)partner and I were riding our scooter, and were hit head-on by an SUV) in February 2013. It turned my life and travels upside down, and ultimately led to the demise of my relationship and life in Grenada.

It Continued With Insurance

When we got into the accident, we only had third party liability insurance on the scooter. That meant we had no coverage for this accident, for which we were not at fault. Our recourse to get money (for medical bills, loss of the scooter, loss of income, and other damages) was through the other driver’s third party liability insurance. We knew this would be an uphill battle, and it was. Is. (Was).

Almost Two Years Later…

We haven’t seen a penny. (Or rather, I haven’t. I can’t speak for my ex, but I believe he’s still fighting for compensation as well). The insurance company has done everything possible to delay and negate our claims – as insurance companies do when facing a significant claim. They’ve played every game in the book to refuse certain expenses, fight others, and blatantly ignore the rest.

I no longer live in Grenada, and have been at the mercy of a lawyer (of questionable quality) to advocate on my behalf – more strikes against me.

The Settlement Insult

The insurance company did make a settlement offer: of less than $2,000, which doesn’t even cover the cost of the totalled scooter, much less my medical expenses, lost income (for which I submitted proof), and the myriad of intangible costs of this life-changing accident. With my luck if I had accepted that claim, the lawyer would have taken most of it as his fee.

Instead, I countered with a reiteration of expenses and receipts and yet more proof of why everything is legitimate. They said “no thanks”. With no counter offer, nothing. Just, no thanks.

Lawyer Problems

The next problem arose when my lovely lawyer informed me that although he was able to negotiate a potential settlement, he was unable to take this matter to court (which was the next step), as he has a potential conflict of interest since he personally uses the insurance company in question.

When I finally located a different lawyer through an international network and lawyer-friend in Canada, I was informed that I would be required to fork out thousands of dollars in a retainer fee to use them, and that there was no guarantee that I would recover the money I paid them even if I won the court case.

Cutting my Losses

Anybody with a law degree reading this next bit is going to cringe: I’ve decided it’s time to cut my losses. I’m going to do exactly what the insurance company wants me to do, which is to walk away.

Although the retainer required by the new lawyer was the impetus for this decision, it runs deeper than that. Since the accident, I’ve invested a huge amount of time, money, and energy in everything from physical and emotional recovery, to the ridiculously ugly claims/settlement process itself. All this energy has been incredibly negative, and has not helped me move forward with my life.

Going to court is no guarantee that I’ll recoup any of this money, and my time and energy spent is gone forever. In fact in order to go to court, I’ll likely have to return to Grenada at great (further) expense – financial and otherwise, and through what will surely be more games played and delayed court dates, even more expense and time than anticipated – for which there is no guarantee of compensation for any of it.

I Lose, They Win, and I Win

I wrestled with this decision long and hard. On the principal of the matter, it ires me to no end that I’m letting them win by not fighting this claim further. I’m losing, and they’re winning.

But in letting go of this battle, I also win. I win my life back.

I’ve been in a sort of stasis for too long, waiting for compensation (dare I say even hoping for a life-changing settlement), which I’ve realized is not going to happen. Whatever settlement I could have received wouldn’t make or break me financially, but the process of getting there could do so emotionally and physically.

You know what? Keep the money. I’m getting on with my life.

Have you Ever Lost to Win?

I’m not looking for legal advice, so please – I don’t need to be told what a horrible decision I’m making from a legal standpoint. I’m aware.

Instead, I’ve chosen to bear this personal story for the world to see, to demonstrate that sometimes, we don’t have to win a battle, even if we know we’re in the right. Sometimes, winning is taking the high road, cutting our losses, walking away, and moving on.

Since making this decision, I feel better. My demeanour is lighter, and I smile more. I’ve turned the final page and closed the book on my relationship, and now I’m free to create a new life for myself. And you know what? It feels good.

Have you ever lost something, to win in life?

This is one of a few serious challenges I’ve had in my 12+ year full-time travel career. Natural disasters, diseases, more breakups than I’d care to admit to…..it’s all here.

This post Cutting Your Losses: Why I’m Losing in Order to Win appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

Thus the saga of the $10,000 Passport – a very tall tale indeed.

See also: How to Carry Your Passport (and What to do if It’s Lost or Stolen)

This post was originally published in 2013. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content.

It all Started with a House Guest

After years and years of accepting the generous hospitality of people around the world who have invited me to stay in their homes, I was only too pleased to offer up my place in Grenada to a friend of a friend who was visiting from Ireland with the intentions of buying a boat. It made perfect sense to have him house-sit while my partner met me in Europe.

When we returned to Grenada, Steve (our house guest – at least that’s what he said his name was) was still there, and we welcomed him to continue to stay with us. He had run into some difficulties in getting the funds for the boat over to Grenada, and was temporarily without money.

“No matter,” I said, still happy to karmically return the hospitality I’ve been given over the years. One extra mouth to feed won’t break the bank.

Steve was a lovely house-guest. Easy-going, helpful, and as charming as the day is long. He had a knack for endearing himself to everybody he met.

But.

When he asked me to lend him money for airfare to get back to Europe to sort out his financial issues, I drew the line. I was happy to give him a place to stay, but the reality is I didn’t know this guy from a hole in the ground, and no promise could guarantee a return of the money I didn’t really have to give in the first place.

It’s still debatable if this was my fatal mistake, because I ended up paying for it either way.

A few weeks later, Steve had acquired just enough money for airfare from a friend who sent the funds to him. My partner and I bid him adieu, with hugs, smiles, and Steve’s promise of returning and treating us to some of his own hospitality as thanks.

Who knew that as we were driving him to the airport and handing him his bags, my passport and thousands of dollars in cash (the proceeds from selling our car – which was to fund our upcoming trip to Panama, and was stashed in a few hiding places) were with him.

Oh, the Violation

The loss was discovered mere hours after his plane took off – and four days before our scheduled flights to Panama for a two-month house-sitting gig. The loss of the money – although substantial – seemed unreal. The loss of the passport – very real.

In a state of bewilderment, we tried to figure out why on earth he would have taken my passport (which was hidden), and not my partner’s, which was in plain sight. Eventually, we arrived at two potential conclusions:

1. Taking my passport was his way of saying “screw you for not giving me money for airfare in the first place”, or:
2. Some of the money was stashed with the passport, and if Steve was acting in a moment of haste, he’d have grabbed the whole thing (for the money) and ditched the passport along the way.

I went with the second assumption and prayed that the passport got ditched along the way, and his intentions were not to mess with my identity.

What to do When Your Passport is Gone?

Hopefully you won’t be four days away from international travel, like I was.

I called the Canadian High Commission (the closest one to Grenada being in Barbados), who broke the bad news that I had no chance of making my flight to Panama. Then they outlined a lengthy process of mailing various documentation to Barbados in order to get a replacement passport (20 business days), and if I’m lucky, a temporary passport to get me to Panama (which would take at least a week). Somewhere in there I’d need to make a special trip to Barbados as well, and some other complications that made the whole process fraught with potential for additional delay.

The whole idea of being trapped in Grenada while awaiting a new passport – all the while letting down the homeowners in Panama who had their own travel plans to keep – was intolerable. I knew if I were in Canada, I could rush a new passport in 24 hours.

So, I hassled Grenada Immigration to issue an emergency travel document that would allow me to fly back to Canada at the last minute and get a new passport.

Chastised for Organization

“Why do you have a copy of your passport?” was the first question of the Grenada Immigration officer who was in charge of issuing the emergency travel document.

“In case something like this happens! Aren’t I glad?” was my genuine response.

He furrowed his brow. “This isn’t normal. People don’t travel with copies of their passports. You’re too organized.” The connotation being that I had somehow planned to bereft myself of my passport.

I was flabbergasted. If I didn’t have a copy of my passport handy, I probably wouldn’t have been able to acquire the emergency travel document. And yet, here I was, being chastised for my organization. (If only he knew how pedantically organized I really am).

The officer finally realized I couldn’t be lying when, in a state semi panic, I stood up, turned around, lifted my shirt and lowered my pants, and showed him my tattoo. Before I started traveling full-time in 2007, I got a tattoo of the Canadian maple leaf (with some artistic interpretive thingies) on my lower back. (Fun fact: I didn’t realize at the time that a tattoo with this particular style and placement is known as a “tramp stamp”.)

It was intended to be a tribute to my Canadian heritage on the eve of departing my homeland for an undetermined period of time, but I also joked that if something ever happened on the road and I was robbed of everything I had, I could stumble into the nearest Canadian consulate, show my tattoo, and be offered whatever assistance I needed.

This story was too much for him to stoically ignore, so he did his best to stifle a guffaw and gave me my travel document. Two days later, off to Canada I went – a 4,000 kilometre detour from my original destination of Panama.

How Does a Passport Cost $10,000?

Following are the various costs incurred as a result of this horrible theft:

• Acquisition of the emergency travel document in Grenada
• Cancelling my return flights (with two airlines) from Grenada to Panama
• Buying last-minute airfare from Grenada to Toronto
• Buying last-minute airfare from Toronto to Panama
• Reissuing my Panama to Grenada flights (since I wouldn’t be making the outward journey)
• New passport in Canada (plus a hefty fee for expediting it in 24 hours)
• Expenses in Canada
• Applications for new ID in Canada

….and of course, all the money that was stolen in Grenada.

All’s Well that Ends Well

“It’s only money” is a cavalier thing to say. Money makes the world go round, and this loss was substantial for me, especially given this year with so many degrees of adversity (including a near-fatal crash).

But the homeowner in Panama was (and is) a champion. She laughed (in supportive disbelief) when I described the loss of my passport and money, and took it in stride when I said I couldn’t be there when I said I would.

To put myself in the homeowner’s shoes – after bringing a relative stranger into my own home and being so badly violated – I must be thankful that she remained calm, collected, and incredibly easy going.

In fact, it is her support and ability to take all these bumps in the road in stride, that has helped me to re-affirm the belief that 99% of the people in this world are fundamentally good.

Steve was one of the 1%, and I suspect he got what was coming to him, even if I wasn’t the one to dole out his punishment.

Turns out this wasn’t Steve’s first rodeo; he was a con-man. This would explain his arresting charm and ability to morph into whatever the person in front of him wanted him to be. This would also explain how he sussed out all my clever(?) hiding spots for cash, and managed to sweep them all in whatever seconds he had alone before he departed.

He may or may not have been in Grenada to get a boat. A boat would have been a good thing for him to have, because as it turned out, he was wanted by Interpol. Nothing is a secret on a small island like Grenada, so it didn’t take long for word to reach us that he had been picked up on his way out of the country.

Too bad whoever picked him up didn’t think to give me back my passport. Ah well, at least it makes for a good story, and I got to put my tramp stamp to good use.

Have you ever been robbed or lost your passport on the road? What did you do?
If you enjoyed reading about this challenging experience, then you’ll LOVE this roundup of all the crappy stuff that has happened to me on the road in my 12+ year career of full-time travel!

This post The Saga of My $10,000 Passport appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

Here are some random observations about Grenada island, and daily life in Grenada:

Capital city = Town

The capital of the country is St George’s, which is referred to as “town”.

“Where is _____?”

“Oh, it’s in town.” No further address or description is usually offered. Once you’re in town, you’ll probably find what you’re looking for. (Read on).

Grenada Island Addresses? Not really

I live in a house with no number on a street with no name. My “official” address for the cable company is “third house on the right after the pasture”. No really.

Got a political campaign? Get a loudspeaker

A totally viable political campaign strategy is to drive around with a loudspeaker and announce your message to the island. In fact, this is one of the more effective ways of communicating any important message to all Grenadians.

Living without a car is a pain. Sort of.

Taking the bus is quite a colourful (and relatively efficient) experience, however buses stop running by 10pm and they don’t run on Sundays at all. This inspires a much simpler lifestyle – which is good. But it’s murder for going out on weekends and being social in the evenings.

Night life?

The buses may stop running early because there just isn’t enough night-time demand. Although there is a decent selection of night life in Grenada, it’s not huge. Big nights for going out tend to be Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays; there are a few marinas and bars or restaurants that tend to be “the place to be” on those given nights, before you move on to a handful of clubs open from late night through early morning. Night life exists, but it’s not prolific.

Sunrise, sunset

Why is night life not prolific? Despite the slightly cooler night temperatures, Grenada is best experienced during the day. With the beaches, waterfalls, coastal drives, and colourful island flavour to experience, it’s no wonder that Grenadians generally rise with the sun, and are relatively early to sleep.

And you can almost set your watch to it; Grenada gets about 12 hours of sunshine a day year-round: 6am-6pm.

Drive slow on Grenada Island

A local friend observed that “the real way to show somebody Grenada is to drive slowly”. To some extent it’s a given, with the curvy roads and random obstacles.

But as you drive along, you’ll notice that every angle and aspect of Grenada looks different. I can drive the same route daily for months and I always see something new. Like – entire houses that I didn’t notice before, partly because there’s so much to look at, and partly because the hilly landscape and dense foliage plays tricks on the eye.

Go sloooow

The above observation applies to enjoying Grenada in general; slowly. Everything in Grenada happens slowly (as has become painfully evident in the aftermath of my accident and ensuing insurance battles).

But icky business aside, the slow pace of life is generally worth celebrating. Liming is Grenada’s national pastime, after all. People look up and engage more; whether they’re in line together, in the market, or in a waiting room. No matter where you go or what your mission, you’ll probably end up doing two things: waiting for something, and chatting to somebody.

Two degrees of separation

In chatting with the random stranger next to you in line, if you spend much time in Grenada, the conversation will quickly turn to who you are, where you live, and who you know. There are at most two degrees of separation between most Grenadians, and it’s fun to discover common friends and family members.

Although I wouldn’t say I have two degrees of separation, it wouldn’t be a stretch to say I’m four (or less) degrees of separation from everybody in Grenada.

Friendly – and safe

“Grenada is the sort of country where you can still give a lollipop to kids,” said a friend of mine. Most school kids take public transportation, and not usually with their parents. Grenadians generally take care of one another, and parents can rest assured that their five year-old will be under the protective eye of the bus driver and conductor, and will be dropped off at school/home safely, and even escorted across the road.

This safe atmosphere and friendly chatty culture makes for a wonderful destination of discovery.

Kissy faces

This friendly culture is abundantly evident in the rampant remarks of appreciation women receive from passers-by. Although it’s generally harmless, kissy-face culture in Grenada is very much alive and well.

Rum Shop Culture

From early morning to late night, rum shops line the roadsides just about everywhere. Many offer convenience items and some offer prepared food (most commonly fried chicken); and all of them offer rum; an eighth of hair-raising rum costs about $2US – it’s ridiculously cheap, and most often drunk straight with a water chaser.

It’s fun to stop off at a rum shop or two along the way as part of an island excursion; and if you’re not of the rum-drinking ilk (I’m most certainly not), there are always a few cold drinks on offer.

(Women be warned: most rum shop lurkers are male, and they can be drunk at any time of day or night. As long as you are friendly but firm, their kissy-face advances are harmless).

It’s a university town

St George’s University makes up for almost 10% of the population of Grenada. It is best known for its medicine and veterinary medicine programs, and draws an international student body.

It’s all on the south side

Almost half the population of Grenada lives in the parish of St George, which encompasses the southwest corner of Grenada – which, in turn, encompasses the capital city of St George’s (“town”), Grand Anse (the hub for most holiday-makers), the university, and the airport.

“Grenada has a bit of everything, and not too much of anything”

This is what a friend said while chatting about all things Grenada. The “everything” in Grenada includes all the accoutrements of the Caribbean like beaches, waterfalls, water activities, bars, restaurants, markets, etc. But there’s not too much of any of it…nor is there too much of…pretty much anything.

Grenada is a place where you have what you need to get by and not too much more; but once you learn to enjoy the simplicity of Grenadian life, there’s very little to miss.

Things to Do in Grenada Island

There’s no shortage of interesting activities to make your time in Grenada both informative and fun. Check these tours out for starters:

Where to Stay in Grenada

I’ll come right out and say it: accommodation in Grenada ain’t cheap. Through some connections, I managed to rent unfurnished apartments for about $300/month, but it’s almost unheard of. If you’re looking at short-term accommodation, expect to pay for it in the Isle of Spice. Then again, it’s a pretty cool island.

This post Random Observations about Grenada Island appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

This post was originally published in 2013. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content.

I stumble out of bed and shuffle to the kitchen to make coffee. Dishes can wait. (I have my priorities).

I sit in front of my computer and contemplate my semi-conscious state. I listen to the black parrots singing in the tree off the terrace, and the Caribbean breezes that rush through the luscious foliage of the surrounding landscape.

Boom! Boom! Boom!

Soca music has just filled the entire house. I blink. Where is it coming from?

Boom! Boom! Boom!

Bobbing to the beats, I dance onto the terrace to see if it’s the neighbour down the street with a loud car stereo. No…it’s too loud for that….

The music is loud enough that it must be coming from the neighbour’s place. But I didn’t realize they had a stereo (or electricity, for that matter)…

I dance around to the front of the house. The music gets even louder. Okay, it’s not the neighbour….this music is echoing and bouncing through the entire valley.

Here’s what I hear and see on this morning: (the video doesn’t quite capture the volume of the music, but I’m sure you’ll get the gist)

Click here to see this video on YouTube.

These classic sounds of Grenada are coming from the local pasture; the central point for community gatherings and sports events. It’s not uncommon for music and announcements to fill the entire valley, especially for Sunday afternoon cricket or football matches on the pasture.

I’ve lived in so many places in the world where these audio levels would be considered intolerable. Here, it’s a welcome part of the Grenadian soundscape. The music is cheerful, and a reminder that there’s always a celebration under foot.

Although I’m sure something entertaining is going on at the pasture, I return to my coffee and laptop to resume waking up. It’s early yet…I’ll heed the next musical call; it won’t be long.

Interested in Life in Grenada? Check These Posts Out…

Buses in Grenada

Driving in Grenada

Don’t Send me Presents: My House Has No Number, My Street No Name

The Art of Liming

Curious Facts About Grenada

This post The Sounds of Grenada…. appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

This post was originally published in 2013. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content.

Kissy Faces

As a white female, I attract quite a bit of attention in Grenada whether or not I want to. One of the incantations of this attention comes in the form of the following soundtrack which accompanies me when I drive around:

“Honey!”

“Baby!”

“Sweetness!”

“Love!”

“Darling!”

“Hey!”

“Can I ride wit you baby?”

“Aaahh!”

“Oooh!”

…and the ever-present kissy face sounds…

I’m not exactly sure what any of my potential suitors would do if I actually responded to their calls; as if I might jump off my scooter right there and then and leap into their arms.

And yes, I’ve been temped to do it just to see what would happen, as I suspect they’d be so surprised that it would turn into a big joke.

But I haven’t done it. (I’m too chicken).

What truly amazes me is that even when I’m on the scooter with my partner (who is a strong man you might think twice about pissing off) – the orchestra of cat calls from the roadside continues unabated!

So now my suitors’ odds are stacked significantly against them with my partner right there, yet they still feel it’s worth a try.

You’ve gotta commend their tenacity.

So we’ve found the perfect way of responding to these ever-present road-side calls:

My partner blows kisses.

Waves

But driving and riding around Grenada is a much more interactive (and pleasurable) experience than simply fending off men.

Grenada is a small island, made up of smaller communities. It doesn’t take long to become a familiar face, especially if you live outside of the major towns (as I do), and you are simply friendly and open, willing to lime, engage in some small talk, and provide a helping hand if it’s needed.

Thus, in my morning ride to the gym, I get smiles, waves, beeps, and hellos from no less than half a dozen people I know or recognize – sitting on their porches, walking along the road, manning the fruit or rum stands, or driving on the roads. And this happens wherever I go.

It’s a heartwarming experience, every time I leave the house.

The Transition

I’ve also noticed a transition recently; the ratio of kissy faces to heartfelt waves has shifted.

Instead of getting the hey-there’s-a-white-chick-on-a-scooter kissy face…

…I get the hey-there’s-that-white-chick-on-a-scooter-I-recognize wave and greeting!

It’s the little things.

Editor’s Note: I wrote this piece prior to having my scooter accident, and although I’m currently relegated to Grenada’s buses and walking, and despite the accident, I still very much loved my scooter days. 

This post Kissy Face Culture in Grenada appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

I literally have no address in Grenada; it’s a random yet appropriate transition from having no fixed address at all to developing some roots.

Although I was initially surprised to discover that conventional Grenada addresses don’t exist, I’ve learned that Grenada is small enough that a verbal description of where you live is sufficient.

This is a country where an effective political campaign involves driving a car with a loudspeaker around all the island communities, announcing campaign promises and platforms.

Grenada in general is an intimate affair.

Here is an FAQ about life with a fixed address (but no address) in Grenada:

This post was originally published in 2013. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content.

But…How do you get your mail?

What mail?

Like, bills n stuff…

Bills aren’t mailed out (unless you are among the “lucky” few who choose to pay for a PO box – for which there are usually waiting lists).

Oh, so your bills are all automated?

Lord, no.

For utilities like electricity, water, and cable, you are expected to remember who you owe, and visit each service provider every month to pay your accounts in person. If you have a local bank account (I don’t), internet banking/bill-paying options are sometimes available.

If a service provider absolutely needs to contact you and is unable to via phone (for example if your services are about to be cut off), then they’ll (sometimes) do a drive-by and hand-deliver your notice to you using the method below.

But how do you get services installed/repaired? Or make appointments? Or open a business?

Addresses in Grenada are largely verbal, and descriptive.

Grenada is divided into six parishes, which give you a starting point. Within the parishes are often “towns” that narrow the field further. Then it’s all about landmarks. The police station, the cemetery, the pasture, the fruit stand, and the local shop are all common landmarks.

A typical Grenada address is along the lines of “You know the police station? Okay, go past that, then take the road towards the shop. Pass the cemetery, pass the pasture, and it’s the yellow house on the left”.

And believe it or not, most people will not only know the place you’re describing, but will interject by further describing the area: “Oh, next to the house with the big mango tree in front?”

Yes, that mango tree.

Incidentally, when meeting somebody new, a similar exercise is performed to determine how many degrees of separation exist between you. Family names and extended family members are explored, often to discover there’s no more than a couple of degrees of separation (among locals). As a foreigner I don’t experience this to the same extent, but there’s still usually only a few degrees of separation to the people I know.

See also: Curious Facts About Grenada Island

But what if you MUST have something delivered?

If you know you’re getting a package or letter, there are creative ways to arrange delivery.

Chances are you know somebody in Grenada with a PO box or who works at a business; they may let you borrow the address for the delivery.

In many cases however, your delivery doesn’t even get that far. Every time I’ve had something delivered (to both PO boxes and businesses), the package has instead been held somewhere else for pickup (such as the airport or Fed Ex centre), and I’ve received a phone call to come pick it up.

Thus, phone numbers are an imperative part of any formal Grenada address!

Failing any of the above address options, services like FedEx and DHL also allow you to have something shipped to their centre for pick-up without providing a local address.

Grenada, Granada, Grenada…huh?

Grenada is in the West Indes (Caribbean).

Granada is in Spain.

And Grenada – yes, another one – is in Nicaragua.

Guess how many packages don’t even make it to the right country, at least without doing a bit of a world tour first!

So don’t send me perishables, please. They might take a while to get here.

This seemingly antiquated address system works for Grenada, and many other places in the world from what I can gather. I remember reading that Costa Rica uses similar landmark-based addresses, except that these “official” descriptive addresses are logged with the postal system, and sometimes hinge on landmarks (like “the big tree” or “pink rock”) that are no longer even there.

Okay, but you still get mail from Canada, right? Like for your driver’s license and taxes?

My Canadian mail is rare, and it goes to my Canadian address – which is managed by my “designated representative” (hi Mum!). If Mum weren’t so awesome, I would subscribe to a virtual mailing service that receives your mail, scans the envelope for you to see it, and awaits your instructions (trash it, forward it, or scan and email the contents).

I live in a house with no number, on a street with no name. And although I have to stand in line to pay bills, and although receiving packages is a crap shoot, I’m coming to like it this way. Life is so very simple. So thank you, but don’t send me presents – chances are I don’t actually need anything.

What’s the strangest address you’ve had? 

Other Interesting Discoveries I Made While Living in Grenada For 2 Years:

The Art of Liming

Buses in Grenada, and How to Take Them

Sulphur Springs Offroad Adventure

Check Out Grenada With me on my Scooter!

This post Don’t Send Me Presents: My House has No Number, My Street No Name appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

I could barely cross the street while I was there, so there was no way I was going to rent a scooter.

This post was originally published in 2013. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content.

So instead, I indulged in a culinary tour of Saigon – on the back of somebody else’s scooter, and between the amazing street food and the joy of riding, it was one of the highlights of all my travels thus far.

I made this teensy little video from my spot on the back of the bike; I think you’ll agree that the streets of Saigon are not great for beginners!

Fast Forward…to Grenada

Although I love riding the buses in Grenada, it’s not the most ideal way to get around. Hours and days of operation are restricted, and although each fare is relatively cheap, it adds up when you have to take multiple buses each way to reach your destination.

So…I bought a scooter.

And I must say, a scooter is one of the best ways to live in and experience Grenada.

Ode to the Scooter

Oh scooter!

You help me feel the breeze on a hot day instead of getting into a steamy car and sweating miserably.

You allow me to interact with my environment much more; enjoying the sights, smelling the smells, and hearing the reggae blaring from roadside rum shops.

I can park you anywhere.

You cost about $5 to fill (1 gallon), and a tank lasts over 100kms.

Brand new, you cost less than half what I’d pay for a crappy used car.

You take up very little room on the roads, which is good because the roads are only little to begin with.

Traffic jams? Rush hour? Pshaw! You scoot around traffic without losing a beat.

I will admit…

Handling speed bumps is not one of your virtues. But you only have little wheels, so I forgive you. And I can still get over the bumps faster than cars.

And at night, Grenada’s many pot holes and dogs like to jump out at you, dear scooter, which can be a very precarious thing.

Rain isn’t very much fun for you or me either, but thank goodness most rain is isolated and doesn’t last long.

And a friend of mine who prefers motorcycles, calls you, dear scooter, “$2,000 worth of hair dryer on wheels”.

Don’t listen to them. You’re so much more than a hair dryer (even a very good hair dryer).

And all that is wrong becomes so right when I lean around corners, take in the lush roadside foliage, and zoom, zoom, zoom.

Oh yeah, and…

You make me feel cool.

(literally and figuratively).

Seeing Grenada from a Scooter

Would you like a tour of Grenada by scooter? Take the driver’s seat with this ride on various back roads, into town and through the capital of St. George’s, up to Concord waterfall, down to the beach, and around to the east coast. Throw in a few pit-stops at rum shops (with new friends made every time, despite the fact that I don’t drink rum), and all in all it makes for a perfect day (or few days rather, as it was shot over the course of a week).

Click here to watch the video on YouTube.

Other Grenada Adventures:

Random Observations About Grenada Island

The Art of Liming: Grenada’s Unofficial Pastime

My House has no Address, My Street no Name

How to Take a Bus in Grenada

This post Unique Transportation: Ode to the Scooter appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

On this day, it was a random street parade, with dancing, music, and levity.

This post was originally published in 2012. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content.

Just before sunset (which arrives around 6pm year-round), I often go out on the scooter in search of a nice spot to admire colourful Grenada’s scenery.

Coming out of town (“town” being the commonly-used reference to Grenada’s capital city of St. George’s), at the side of the road was a parade of sorts. It was a small affair led by a truck with loudspeakers playing what sounded like spiritual or inspirational music, then a few guys carrying banners, and an assortment of colourfully-clad dancing women and men.

Some held streamers and props in their hands to complement this improvisational dance which evidently came from the heart, while others just let the spirit move them in whatever ways felt good.

Following this parade of about 20 dancers, was a small crowd who ambled behind, observing and enjoying the festivities.

I sat on my scooter, across the road, mesmerized by this proceeding. The colours and all-encompassing spirit and commitment of the dancers was inspiring. Although I’m not sure what the parade was all about, I assume it was a religious procession, originating from one of the many churches that populate the island.

Although I’m not a big fan of religious doctrine, (I refer to myself as “spiritual, but not religious”), today it didn’t matter. I was awe-struck and moved by the colours, the joy, and the song. This demonstration of joy crossed religious boundaries, and struck the hearts of myself and many other people that day.

Don’t just take my word for it; check out the short video below to see – and feel – what a random street parade in Grenada is like for yourself!

Feel free to click here to watch this video on YouTube.

This post Colourful Grenada: A Random Street Parade appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

As I make the final turn, I can see my destination – the main road, and a bus stop – about 200 metres away. A large blue van pulls up to the distant intersection. The side door opens, somebody steps out and waves to me. I wave back.

I’ve just hailed a bus, from a distance longer than ear shot.

This post was originally published in 2012. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content.

There is a lady and little girl behind me who are also headed for the bus. Despite the fact that there are other passengers on the bus waiting for us, she does not pick up her pace. So I follow suit and continue my amble towards the bus.

The bus, in response, backs down our street to meet us so we don’t have to walk all the way.

Getting personal off-route pick-ups is just one of the many things that makes Grenada’s public bus system one of the most unique – and enjoyable – forms of transportation I’ve encountered around the world.

How Buses in Grenada Work

Buses in Grenada are privately-owned vans that seat up to 20 people. It’s a tight fit, with lots of shifting around to let passengers in and out. The owners of the buses – who are usually also the drivers – are accompanied by a conductor who sits beside the sliding side door, often with their head hanging out the window.

As they drive, the conductor scouts the roadside for passengers and with a word or snap of the fingers they signal the driver to stop. (Which is why, when you’re driving in Grenada, you need to be ready for vehicles ahead to make sudden stops).

Although there are formal bus stops, anybody – whether or not they’re at a stop or even on the main road – stands a chance of getting the bus to stop for them.

Why are buses so flexible to picking up passengers?

Because the more fares they can squeeze into the bus, the more money they’ll make. And since they only get a limited number of daily runs on the route (they can’t just go whenever they want), they need to make the most of it.

And the most of it, they certainly do make. Among some of the more amusing things I’ve experienced, a driver I know regularly makes a purposeful turn off-route…to pick up his sister.

As the bus is nearing your destination, just knock on the side of the bus (or press the doorbell beside you if there is one), and the driver will pull over at the nearest safe spot to let you off.

For this (almost) door-to-door service, you’ll pay the equivalent of about $1 US dollar. (Per bus – more on this below).

Party on Wheels

Hailing the bus and enjoying the creative routes is where the fun starts. Once you’re on the bus, you can admire the occasional custom paint job (as seen above), and even the odd light show with strategically placed neon lights. (The outsides of buses are also often adorned with custom slogans too, creating a personality of sorts for each bus).

Depending on the taste of the driver, you’re also likely to be serenaded by reggae music, which is at times played a few decibels higher than it should be, but is generally received with grooving head bobs all around.

And sometimes, it’s nice to have something to listen to while you’re hanging on for dear life.

How They Drive

Yes, I said it. Hanging on for dear life. At the best of times the buses usually rocket past other traffic, and at the more life-threatening of times, they careen around corners with screeching wheels and harrowing consequences if something were to go wrong.

What exactly sets the pace, I’m not sure. Once, I was on a bus that was going at a relatively comfortable speed, but on receiving some sort of signal from a bus driver coming the other way, my driver put his cell phone down (ha!) and kicked the vehicle into a gear I wasn’t aware it was capable of.

I had no idea that such a large boxy vehicle could manage the tight (blind) corners on the narrow roads barely two cars wide, and despite my general affinity for speed, I was at my safety limit and almost got off the bus early.

(I didn’t get off the bus, on the premise that I haven’t heard of buses rolling over cliffs from taking corners too fast, so I placed faith in the driver’s guru-talents, hoping he knew something about the laws of physics that I was unaware of.)

Where Grenada Buses Run (and When)

The central hub for most bus routes in Grenada’s is St. George’s (the capital, also referred to as “town”). Buses in Grenada cover most of the main roads, and you’ll rarely wait long for a bus…at least when they’re running.

But this is part of the problem; buses don’t run on Sundays or holidays, and depending on the route, the last bus into “town” may leave as early as 4pm. (The major buses usually run until 8 or 9pm).

So between potentially long walks to and from the main roads and a severely limited way to get around after hours (taxis – which look just like buses – are way more expensive, even if shared), the bus system in Grenada is just a hair shy of being practical. (Or rather more appropriately – it’s not always convenient).

A Sense of Community

But Grenada is a small island, which to my eyes requires forgiveness if not everything is convenient. Although the infrastructure of Grenada is formally organized, it also relies on the community coming together to make things happen.

As an example, buses often make informal deliveries along the route. The conductor will step out to pick up a packed lunch waiting at the shop, and drop it off for the woman manning a fruit stand further down the road. Or if somebody gets news that an elder is ill, the bus will stop at the chemist to pick up medication and deliver it down the road (along the route) to them.

This is just one of the many ways that this small Caribbean island feels more like a little community than an entire country.

More Stuff About Living in Grenada

Introduction to Grenada

Curious Facts About Grenada

Don’t Send me Presents: My House Has no Number, My Street No Name

The Art of Liming: Grenada’s Unofficial Pastime

Things to Do in Grenada

Grenada is a quiet island, but there’s still plenty to do. Here’s some inspiration:

Where to Stay in Grenada

Most people stay in the south part of the island near Grand Anse which is one of the best beaches in the world. But there are lots of options to suit many budgets. Check out the map widget below to find your perfect accommodation (zoom out to see the island).

This post Unique Transportation: Buses in Grenada appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

In October, mornings become a greater hub of activity than normal. Shortly after the 6am sunrise, the narrow twisting roads throughout Grenada are lined with people clearing the foliage.

This post was originally published in 2012. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content.

This island is so full of life that it overgrows everything if not tamed. It creeps up on you, and by the time the rainy season has finished, you don’t realize a blanket of green scrub has covered everything and significantly narrowed the roads. (The thick foliage decreases the line of sight around the many corners).

But October means the end of rainy season is nearing, as are the cruise ships.

So Grenada is on clean up duty. There’s work-a-plenty for people who are game for some manual hacking away and raking up of extra greenery around the island. The grass and scrub measuring up to five feet high is hacked with a machete (aka cutlass), then often trimmed as low as possible with a weed-whacker. Parks are cleaned up, as are the cemeteries, waterfront areas, and just about any public spot that’s green.

It’s hard work, which is why they start very early and finish before the sun becomes unbearably hot.

Speaking of heat, these cleanup efforts are for more than just the coming tourist season. The end of the rainy season means the beginning of the dry season, which brings increased risk of fires.

And having been caught in Australia’s worst-ever natural disaster – the Victorian Bushfires, I’m quite pleased to see these bushfire precautions being taken.

For all the efforts of the cleanup crew, the island has transformed before my eyes. Everything is crisper, cleaner, and with excess foliage trimmed back, I’m “discovering” little things that I never saw before. (Like entire houses).

Most notably, the streets are getting wider. With the roads as narrow as they are to begin with, gaining space on either side of the road makes the often tight squeezes with other cars a little more breathable, and the corners less harrowing.

With fresh perspective, and positive new regrowth popping through, everything – and everybody – just seems to be standing a little taller these days. Grenada just got a face lift!

Curious About Life in Grenada?

Unique Transportation: Buses in Grenada

Scooter Tour Around Grenada

Driving in Grenada

Grenada Addresses: My House Has No Number, My Street No Name

Curious Facts About Grenada Island

This post Grenada Gets a Face Lift appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!