Over 10 days, I circumnavigated Newfoundland on an expedition cruise; here is the story of this wild and raw place as told through my Newfoundland cruise experience and some of the many colourful ports of call we visited. 

This post was originally published in 2019. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content. 

Why Visit Newfoundland? 

Why do most people visit Newfoundland? For starters, it’s known for its rugged beauty, epic hiking, kind people, colourful architecture, and vibrant music scene. 

Me? I choose my destinations somewhat randomly, and Newfoundland was no exception. My initial inspiration for this trip was based on a musical, followed by a random conversation. 

The musical in question was “Come From Away”, which is my favourite musical – and that’s saying something (as a former professional actor/singer/dancer, I performed in my share of musical theatre). 

It’s based on the true story of how, when 9-11 happened and U.S. airspace was closed, all the planes in the air needed to land somewhere. That somewhere was Gander Newfoundland; a largely abandoned airport that used to be the refuelling point for all transatlantic flights. 38 airplanes and almost 7,000 people descended (literally) on this town of less than 10,000 people. The genuine hospitality of the locals who opened their homes and hearts to 7,000 displaced, confused, and grief-stricken passengers put Gander (and Newfoundland) on the international scene in a whole new way. 

I didn’t know how a topic like this would go over in a musical. (I mean seriously? A musical about 9-11?!) But it was brilliant, and after seeing it in Toronto, I saw it again in LA. It made me proud to be Canadian, and curious about Newfoundland. 

My second impetus for the trip was a chance conversation with a woman who lived in Newfoundland for 20 years, and the more she spoke of this quirky culture with a dialect all their own, the more I had to experience it.
The universe conspired shortly thereafter when I was invited on an Adventure Canada Newfoundland Cruise as a journalist (that means my expenses were paid). I had already decided that the best way to experience Newfoundland would be by boat, but as my first expedition cruise, I hadn’t the slightest idea how comprehensive and insightful the trip would end up being.
More on expedition cruising and Adventure Canada a bit later. First, Newfoundland.

PS: Bring a Hair Tie

The first thing I learned about Newfoundland is that it’s windy. Like, really windy. While staying in St. John’s Newfoundland prior to the cruise and visiting Cape Spear (the easternmost point of North America), I just couldn’t get a picture without my hair completely masking my face. This became the impetus for a photo essay, the theme of which will shortly become apparent.

The Nature of Expedition Cruising

“There are a few things you can count on with this cruise,” said Dan, our expedition leader, in the initial briefing after boarding the Ocean Endeavor – our home for the next 10 days. “One of which is the morning wake up call!”
We collectively groaned; a woman leaned towards me and whispered “and you can’t turn the bloody speakers down or off either.” She was a repeat customer with Adventure Canada, as were many of the passengers; the record holder on this trip had 11 Adventure Canada cruises under her belt.
While Adventure Canada creates an itinerary for every trip, it’s ultimately determined by the mood of the planet – aka the weather. But quite often, where one door closes another one opens. We experienced this many times over the next 10 days.
Some locations had to be dropped entirely from the itinerary, and others rescheduled for later. In one case we ended up stopping somewhere Adventure Canada had never before visited, which (although it came at the cost of a scheduled itinerary day) ended up being one of our most intrepid and adventurous excursions, and made us all feel like true explorers.
Each evening we received a briefing of the following day’s itinerary, and every briefing started with the weather, which ultimately dictated everything.

Newfoundland Culture and Vernacular

“Whaddya at?” Pronounced like it’s one word, this is a Newfoundlander’s way of saying “what are you up to”.
“Dis is it,” is the stock-standard reply, seemingly regardless of what the respondent is actually doing.
While I initially figured the above exchange is akin to “how are you/I’m fine thanks”, there’s another Newfoundland phrase for that.
“How you goin’?” comes the question, which is responded to with a simple “the best kind”, which generally equates to “great” or “excellent”; a phrase that can also be used outside of this particular context to simply say “awesome”.
Swarve. Scravel. Mauzy. Nich. Dunch. Dwoi.
Townie vs. Bayman.
Phrases like “Stay where you’re to, I’ll come where you’re at”.
Although we fundamentally spoke the same language, while in Newfoundland I often felt like I was in another country. Over the course of the trip I came to understand how insightful that feeling actually was.

Newfoundland’s history (and resulting unique dialect) is incredibly storied. It only became a part of Canada in 1949 (more on this later), and up to that point there were many incantations of government and rulings. While there’s history of habitation in Newfoundland dating back over 9,000 years, since the 1500’s, Newfoundland was the site of numerous European fishing and whaling outposts. The oil rendered from the Basque whaling station in Red Bay Labrador for example, provided enough oil to light most of Europe in the 16th century.
Newfoundland’s linguistic influence is thus also varied. Many phrases, music, and even the cadence of conversation closely reflects their Irish heritage. Music is a big part of Newfoundland culture, and whether you’re on a pub crawl on George Street in St. John’s (which I did), or having a party in the local town hall (I attended a few of those too), live music is the name of the game and the genre is very much folk music with a strong Irish influence.
This musical foundation trumps modern pop culture. While listening to music at a popular pub in St. John’s, I leaned over to my local (young, hip, well-traveled) friend and asked her how many of these songs she actually knew, expecting her to only admit to knowing a couple of songs. “Oh, all of them!” she emphatically replied.

In addition to the Irish imprint, you also see Newfoundland’s Basque influence resulted in places with French-spelled names, but pronounced by Newfoundlanders in utterly illogical ways. The town of Francois, which most people would recognize as a French name and pronounce as fran-swah, is pronounced by the locals as fran-sway.
Gros Morne national park? Don’t go all French and make the s silent. No. It’s said as “gr-oh-s morn”, almost phonetically.
My favourite was Facheux Bay, our unscheduled stop on the trip; a glacial fjord that is one of the deepest points on the continental shelf. I don’t even know how the locals came up with their pronunciation of it, as foo-shee Bay.

Oh, and it’s official. While you won’t offend many locals by using the term “Newfie”, some don’t take kindly to it, so it’s always best to say “Newfoundlander”.

A Culturally Immersive Cruise Experience

Given that a huge contingent of the expedition team for this cruise were Newfoundlanders, we were able to learn a lot about Newfoundland throughout the trip, both on and off the ship.
Adventure Canada makes a point of staffing each cruise with local talent, and I’m not talking about the kind of talent that performs Vegas-style revues and other typical forms of “cruise entertainment”. The local talent comes in the form of naturalists, historians, geologists, scientists in residence, musicians, novelists, cultural experts, and more.
Instead of cabaret shows, we had “kitchen parties” – informal social gatherings typical of Newfoundland with music, stories, dancing, limericks, and anything that anybody who wished to participate could contribute. During the day, the on-board entertainment came in the form of back-to-back workshops that could be enjoyed in the modest lounge, or even on television from the comfort of your cabin.
Off the boat, excursions were accompanied by these same experts, who provided a ton of information to help us put our experiences in context. While on a bus passing by a lake, our local naturalist educated us: “On yer left you’ll see a pond – we don’t often refer to bodies of water as lakes; we call ’em ponds. Lakes are what you have when you get water in yer boot.”

Bonavista (With a Side of Trinity) Newfoundland

Dan had prepared us well. Our very first briefing involved an itinerary change. “With the winds, we can’t get into Bonavista bay safely,” he started.
Expedition cruising is done on small ships. Adventure Canada’s Ocean Endeavour is purpose-built for sailing in icy and remote environments, and has a passenger capacity of 198 plus crew. This smaller size allows the ship to visit places that larger ships wouldn’t stand a chance of getting into. In most cases, we anchored in the bay and used zodiacs to ferry ashore.
But smaller ship size and zodiac landings mean wind and waves are problematic. Passengers are all given waterproof/windproof expedition jackets (to keep!), and are categorically required to bring waterproof pants and highly encouraged to bring dry-bags/waterproof backpacks. After a few windy wavy – and wet – zodiac rides, I was grateful for the waterproof layers.
The upside of not being able to anchor in Bonavista Bay was that we anchored on the other side of the peninsula in Trinity Bay. This gave us a two-for-one experience for the day, exploring both towns that were a short bus ride apart.

This two-for-one thing happened a few times during our Newfoundland cruise, and I was consistently amazed at how efficiently the expedition staff could change the slate and make necessary last minute arrangements for us.
But visiting both towns with a one hour bus ride in between meant a long day. “I wonder if we’ll have a day at sea,” I mused. “I’d like that.”
But, would I really?

Taste of Place

Dinner after visiting Bonavista and Trinity Newfoundland was a feast. Adventure Canada newly launched their “Taste of Place” program, and this Newfoundland cruise was the inaugural run.
“Learning through culture, music, arts, and science has long been at the core of our expeditions. Now, we are thrilled to add food to this immersive collection of experiences,” says the Adventure Canada website, and this played out in many ways throughout the cruise, from nightly 3-course dinners, to random “Taste of Place pop-ups” on land with cups of homemade local fish chowder or craft beer tastings.
The Taste of Place menu on board was planned and executed by Newfoundland chefs, using grandma’s recipes. A lot of the dishes we were served weren’t things you could find in a restaurant, but were absolutely an intrinsic part of local culture. And just in case the Taste of Place menu didn’t float your boat on any given night, the kitchen had 3-4 other options to choose from.
Our first Taste of Place meal of the trip? Iconic local hand-line caught cod, fresh veggies, and a rhubarb pie using rhubarb picked just that morning.

Too bad for me I couldn’t eat dinner that first night.
Although the two-metre swells we were rolling about in didn’t initially phase me, shortly after sitting down to dinner I broke into a sweat and started calculating how long it would take me to get to the nearest bathroom in case I had to upchuck. Crew members were subtly placing sick bags around the ship for people like me.
I had brought over-the-counter natural homeopathic motion sickness tablets with me, and the previous night I thought they were doing a good job. But these swells were too much for my natural pills; I needed the big guns (like Gravol or Dramamine) and I didn’t have any, so I retreated to my room before dinner arrived and didn’t emerge until lunch the next day, after my cabin attendant found me still unwell in the morning and insisted I drink some tea and eat something (which made me feel better, to my surprise).
So if I can impart some contextual advice if you’re considering an expedition cruise, I’d suggest that you bring all the natural pills and pressure point bracelets you wish. But also, bring along a few hard-core anti-nausea pills; sea-sickness is no fun, and you’ll want to get the most out of your expedition cruise experience.
It’s ironic that I had earlier wished for a day at sea, because after 14 or so hours of being seasick, all I wanted – prayed for, even – was to get off the boat.

Doubling the Size of Conche, and the Small Town Newfoundland Situation

That opportunity eventually came the following afternoon, when we arrived in the town of Conche. “Conche: The Beauty Spot of the North,” remarked a bumper sticker on a passing truck. While it’s a great slogan, the run on such bumper stickers had to be small.
“You’ve just doubled our population,” remarked Mary, our emcee of the afternoon and evening’s events, and later on, our mascot for Conche. She was a fiery high-energy redhead in her 60s who was unstoppable; if there was five minutes to kill, she’d take it upon herself to entertain us with an Irish jig, and she was still dancing long after the music finished at the end of the evening.
When asked where she gets her energy from, she replied “officially they say I have ADHD, but ’round here people just say I got a fly up me arse”.
Conche was our first experience visiting a tiny town (“we have a population of 180 people, on a good day that is”), but it wasn’t our last. Newfoundland is made up of many such small towns, each with their own flavour, and all founded upon the rich waters beyond.
But towns like Conche weren’t always so small, and in many such places I sensed the mourning of a life (and town) that once was.

Survival in Newfoundland has always (until quite recently) depended on access to the sea, with fishing – specifically cod fishing – being the main industry. The sea is woven into the culture in so many ways, large and small. For example, in St. John’s, on garbage days people put their trash bags on the sidewalk with fishing nets over them to prevent seagulls from getting into it. It’s actually legally mandated. Fishing net! Who would think of that outside of a fishing-based culture?

So when the cod fishing industry collapsed with the cod moratorium invoked in 1992, it had a devastating effect on all of Newfoundland, and small towns were hit the hardest. With 30,000 fishers and plant workers suddenly out of work, it was Canada’s largest mass layoff. Towns like Conche that existed almost solely on the cod fishing industry suffered mass attrition, which continues today.
In Francois (another small town), I asked a fellow from Halifax who lives there part time why he doesn’t just stay full-time. “No jobs, and no women,” came his inarguable reply.
One of the Newfoundland expedition staff who lives in a small town was a bit more eloquent. “If you study to become a lab tech at the hospital, but the only hospital in town employs two lab techs and they’ve both got 20 working years ahead of them, you’ve got to leave if you want work, plain and simple.” And once people leave, they rarely come back (to live).
While Conche and other fishing towns are resilient and have found other ways to survive (for example by fishing and processing other critters like crab and shrimp), there’s just not enough to go around.
Newfoundlanders are a bit bitter about all this (understandably). It wasn’t “ma and pa” fishers, but the grand-scale international commercial fishing off the coast of Newfoundland was responsible for the mass depletion of fish stocks and ultimately the cod moratorium. But it was “ma and pa” who were hit the hardest.

Another hot topic in some small towns is Confederation (Newfoundland joining Canada in 1949). It’s debatable whether things would actually have played out differently if Newfoundland had not confederated, but it all simmers in the same bitter-soup. Only 52% of Newfoundlanders voted in favour of Confederation, which leaves a very large number of people pretty unhappy about it all.
Who can blame them. With seafaring roots and outpost life, Newfoundland’s small towns have been dealt a pretty crappy hand. Shortly after Confederation, through the 1950’s and 60’s, the government realized the cost of providing services for remote outlying communities (such as those only accessible by ferry) was prohibitive. Under one of the most controversial government programs, a resettlement was initiated that resulted in over 30,000 people being moved from over 300 communities which today remain abandoned.
It makes sense on paper to have moved these communities, and the government provided (arguably) generous financial assistance, but it left a few scars nonetheless. Scars that were exacerbated by the cod moratorium which struck Newfoundland to the core, fishing being their very identity and industry for hundreds (even thousands) of years.

Walking along the road in Conche with an expedition staff member-cum-friend from Newfoundland, we locked eyes with a couple of local guys. “Let’s see what’s going on here,” he said while steering me towards them. Before I knew it I was standing in a wooden shed in Conche drinking beer with a few local lads.
“This is Nora,” started my friend. “She’s from Canada.”
I frowned. “Aren’t we all?”
“’Round here, if you’re not from Newfoundland, you’re from Canada,” he replied. This speaks to the sentiment of many Newfoundlanders who don’t support Confederation, and perhaps even blame Confederation for Newfoundland’s declined economy and population.

Contrarians to this attitude have a different approach. “What’s the capital of Newfoundland?” I was asked a few times. It was of course a setup.
“Fort McMurray” was the answer they were getting at. Newfoundlanders have migrated en masse, some temporarily, others permanently, to Fort McMurray (and other parts of Alberta) for the abundance of jobs in the oil and mining industries. In all it’s said that almost 20,000 Newfoundlanders have migrated to Alberta, and almost 20% of the population of Fort McMurray is from Newfoundland.
The ultimate point being made by the contrarians cracking jokes about the capital of Newfoundland, is that Newfoundland would have found itself hitting hard times regardless of politics, but that being a part of Canada was to their advantage in having the ability to get work in other provinces.

I’ll politely refrain from casting an opinion, as the waters run deep and two weeks in Newfoundland is about 20 years too short of long enough to make any kind of educated statement.

Newfoundland UNESCO Sites

Of the 18 UNESCO World Heritage sites in Canada, Newfoundland and Labrador have four, which is the highest concentration of sites in any Canadian province. We visited three of them on three consecutive days.

St Anthony Newfoundland (L’Anse Aux Meadows)

“Tomorrow, we’re visiting St. Anthony,” said an expedition staff member who was born and raised there. “But you people are saying it all wrong. To say it right, you gotta get it down to two syllables: Snantny.” We all repeated “Snantny” methodically in an effort to embrace our inner Newfoundlanders.
“We have 2,400 people in Snantny, so you can get everything you need,” he continued. “Except Amazon Prime. For that you gotta drive 45 minutes to a town with 100 people. Go figure.”
In addition to the local hospital which is the main industry for “Snanty”, 30-40,000 people per year come through enroute to L’Anse Aux Meadows (pronounced lants ah med-ohs kind of like it’s one word), which is the only authenticated Viking site and the earliest evidence of Europeans in North America, dating back 1,000 years.

Red Bay Basque Whaling Station Labrador

As our only stop in Labrador, this was an eventful one. In our briefing the night before we were shown a video of the moment when Red Bay Basque Whaling Station was designated as a UNESCO site, at a meeting in Cambodia of delegates from around the world. In the video, Mayor Wanita of Red Bay, a small woman with a large heart, bursts into tears and starts hugging everybody around her before delivering a heart-felt speech that imparts the passion of this tiny town for preserving this historic site that holds huge significance to Europe’s development in the 1500’s.
Many of us shed a tear watching this moving video, and all of us viewed Mayor Wanita as a minor celebrity when she boarded our ship in the morning to say hello before we went ashore. I inexplicably wanted to hug her.
Celebrity or not, “humble” is the best word I can conjure for the people of Newfoundland in general, and Wanita embodied it.
In the afternoon, when hiking with a small group of passengers to a lookout, the winds increased to such a fervour that the zodiacs were having trouble getting back to the ship. With a dire forecast, and another 90 minutes of hiking to reach the dock, we were running out of time. It was Mayor Wanita who came to our rescue and shuttled us in her car to the dock so we could return safely to the Ocean Endeavor.

Gros Morne National Park

Capping off our UNESCO trilogy was Gros Morne National Park, famed as one of the few places on earth where deep ocean crust and the earth’s mantle are exposed, showing evidence of continental drift, tectonic plates, and other geological wonders. (Our ship’s geologist was like a kid in a candy shop here, and one of the other staff members worked in this park as a Parks Canada manager for 33 years).
The park’s 180,000 annual visitors are served by eight nearby communities, one of which is Woody Point, with just 300 people. During the course of the trip we descended upon so many similar tiny towns with populations that our ship and crew rivalled, and yet they all took it in stride – and in many cases they prepared lunch or dinner for us no less. Despite the amount of UNESCO-visiting traffic some of these small towns get, I saw no tourist-trap style exploitation or commercial cash-grabs happening. Truly, we were welcomed as if we were the first people ever to pass through, with curiosity, warm smiles, and open hearts.

Taking an Adventure Canada Newfoundland Cruise

There was so much more to the adventure cruise.
There was our expedition landing in Little Garia Bay, our unscheduled stop in Facheux (foo-shee), and the crowning jewel of the whole trip: Francois (fran-sway) – a place only accessible by boat that is quite possibly the most beautiful place on earth and which epitomizes the spirit of community; a requirement for sheer survival in such a place.
Not to mention our trip to France! St. Pierre and Miquelon is the only French colony remaining in North America, and provided a huge cultural contrast to Newfoundland, a mere half a day away by boat.
Due to inclement weather, we also missed our stop in Conne River and our chance to spend time with and learn about the Miawpukek First Nations people.
This is the nature of expedition cruising, and if you end up taking an Adventure Canada Newfoundland Cruise, you’ll have a different experience from me. Every expedition cruise is distinct, and that’s one of the many things that make it special. (Click here for more info on their Newfoundland itinerary). 

Expedition Cruising as a Solo Traveler

If you’re like me, very idea of a cruise conjures visions of couples and families doing couple-and-family-things. This is not a great environment for a solo traveler to meet people and feel welcome.
I had a conversation with a colleague who was raving about a Disney Cruise she did. “How is it for solo travelers?” I asked.
“Oh it would be great!” she replied, and went on to describe all the ways Disney caters specifically to adults.
“But, how easy is it to meet people if you’re going solo? And do they offer a single supplement?” I pressed.
She blinked. “I don’t know. I was with my husband, and I didn’t pay much attention to the solo travelers, if there were any.”
Unlike most traditional cruises, Adventure Canada caters to solo travelers with valuable incentives like free single supplements. As one of many solo travelers on this trip, I had no trouble meeting people and there wasn’t the air of exclusivity that you might find on other cruises.

Okay. How Much?

If you look at some of the Adventure Canada expedition cruises (click here to see them all), you’ll see that these are bucket-list trips, with accompanying price tags (this trip starts at $4,000 USD for 10 days, all-inclusive). But most of the trips they offer can’t be experienced in any other way; the Northwest Passage is a perfect example, and is one of their signature trips exploring Arctic territory that can only be traveled by ship.
They also have some noteworthy incentives, including:

• 30% off for passengers under 30 years of age
• Free single supplement for solo travelers (basically a 50% savings to get a cabin to yourself)
• Children under four years of age only pay for charter airfare (if applicable)
• Children under two years of age travel free
• Multi-trip promotions and price guarantees
  
  

What Makes Adventure Canada Different

One thing that sets Adventure Canada apart for me, is the family vibe. The company had its humble beginnings over 30 years ago by a trio of two brothers and a friend who wanted to take travelers to off-the-map destinations. They’re still doing the same thing (albeit on a larger scale) and it is still entirely a family business, now run by the founders’ children who grew up on these ships.
Our expedition leader Dan? He’s the son of Dave, one of the co-founders. On this cruise, Dave was actually Dan’s assistant. Bill Swan, one of the other co-founders, was on board overseeing the inauguration of the Taste of Place program, and his nephew Matthew James, was working in a variety of capacities. A friend of mine did an Adventure Canada cruise earlier this year that had other Adventure Canada family members on board; what is consistent is the family vibe and humble roots.

The other noteworthy aspect of Adventure Canada that makes my heart flutter is their utter dedication to developing partnerships that improve our world. Be they social, cultural, or environmental, the causes actively supported by Adventure Canada are many.
When I challenged co-founder Bill Swan to tell me how adventure cruising (and Adventure Canada in particular) is different from some of the traditional cruise boats that are known to be egregious environmental offenders, he in turn challenged me to finish the cruise and tell him. (Though he did humour me with a 20-minute rapid-fire monologue detailing just a few of the ways they’re reducing and offsetting and even striving to create a positive environmental impact).

See also: How I Travel With Zero Waste

Well, Bill was right. By the end, I was a convert. I had watched 160 passengers positively affected by the daily educational workshops on topics like soil regeneration and wildlife management, who foraged on land with a Taste of Place expert who then used the food they gathered for our meals, and who embraced water conservation practices and eschewed single-use plastics.
There were no soapboxes. No evangelical rants. No guilt trips or pledge drives. But for those who wanted to learn and to make a difference there was no end of opportunity.
By visiting places people don’t normally get to see, leaving no trace, providing economic assistance to local communities, and interacting harmoniously with nature, it’s hard not to return from an Adventure Canada expedition cruise a changed person…..and it’s even harder not to dream of where the next trip will be.

Watch the Video! 

Before you Go…

In order to cruise with Adventure Canada, you must provide evidence of proper travel insurance including evacuation insurance.

Click Here for everything you need to know in general about the insurance you need (and don’t need). 

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I sailed with Adventure Canada free of charge, and if you click on the links in this post to book your trip, I’ll receive a small commission. As always, all opinions are my own an I was given complete editorial freedom in writing this article.
Learn more about Adventure Canada and book your trip here.

This post This is the Best Way to Visit Newfoundland appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

I saw Loretta LaRoche speak at a conference. She grew up being told by her mother that she could only wear her nice underwear on special occasions. Thing is, there was never an occasion special enough to put on these “party pants”. She also poked fun at people who have sitting rooms they never sit in, with nice furniture covered in protective plastic. Her theory was that we could all love life a lot more if we enjoyed the things we have rather than perpetually saving them for another day….a day that may never come.

I’m here to say it’s time to wear our party pants.

I have traveled with two tiny packing cubes of easy care travel clothes from Anatomie Travel Clothing for three weeks, in true capsule wardrobe fashion. It changed the way I will travel (and live!) forever.

See also: Pro Packing Hacks – Here are the Best Travel Accessories for Saving Space and Organization

And for the fellas: Here’s your own Travel Capsule Wardrobe for Men!

NOTE: This article was originally published in 2016, and gets updated regularly – at least once a year. Some of the styles pictured here have been discontinued; I’ve replaced some with newer shots, but I also wanted to show that I’ve been wearing Anatomie clothes since 2012! Even though some styles come and go, the signature materials, design ethics, elevated style, and travel-friendly properties remain constant.

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My Journey With Anatomie Travel Clothing

The birth of the Anatomie capsule wardrobe idea

I visited Anatomie Travel Clothing’s headquarters in Miami. I’d been a fan of Anatomie for years already; they sent me my first outfit in 2012 – an outfit that is still going strong, all these years (and abuse) later. (See also: Anatomie – My New Favourite Travel Clothing)

Shawn and Kate (Anatomie’s co-founders) talked about cost-per-wear. While doing some math, I realized that their prices (a stumbling block for me) weren’t as high as I’d initially thought if I worked out how many miles I could get out of them – literally and figuratively. So, I threw out my jeans.

I returned to Anatomie’s headquarters a second time with a furrowed brow. My favourite travel pants – the Kate Skinny Cargo pants, which I got just a couple of years prior – had worn in the strangest of ways. It led to concerns about the quality of their travel clothes on the whole. My original capris were doing great! Why had the Kate pants deteriorated like this in a fraction of the time?

Anatomie was churning out a huge number of new styles at the time, becoming a highly-recognized brand name in the luxury market as the ultimate travel clothes for women. Had they grown too big for their own good?

Luckily, my concerns were assuaged when I received a brand new pair of Kate pants and was assured that any customer with a similar problem would be afforded the same treatment. They said that occasionally material from the end of a roll could do funny things like this, and while they hadn’t seen this particular problem before, they would look out for it in the future.

While Anatomie may be growing exponentially, they still pride themselves on superior service and developing long-term relationships with their customers, as evidenced by the expedient replacement of my defective pants, their personal style concierge service, and more.

Not only did they replace my Kate pants, but they loaded me up with a whole bunch of new styles and Anatomie “Travel Essential” pieces. (Travel Essentials are styles they carry year after year because they’re so popular, and customers get angry if Anatomie stops making them.)

With this gift of new clothes, they issued me a challenge: pack and wear only Anatomie clothes for my next trip. So, I did; the next opportunity I had to leave my big suitcase I armed myself for three weeks with two wee packing cubes of Anatomie clothes.

Here’s what I learned about what makes for the best wrinkle free travel clothes for women. (See the end of this post for an exact list of what I traveled with, so you can design your own ideal travel capsule wardrobe).

Before we go any further, I must tell you that I have received a ton of Anatomie clothing for free since the beginning of my partnership. I’ll also add that I’ve bought many styles for myself at retail prices. I put my money where my mouth is, and I endorse Anatomie for having terrific travel clothes for women.

As such, if you click on any of the links in this post and buy Anatomie clothes, I will receive a small commission. It doesn’t affect your price, and it helps me keep running The Professional Hobo. I appreciate your support in advance!

Clicking the links in this article will give you 20% off site wide at Anatomie! Discount automatically applies at checkout.

Longevity

Quality travel clothing will go the distance – literally and figuratively.

My Cargo Capris (since discontinued, though keep an eye on the Anatomie website – they occasionally revive them for a season) are still going strong since getting them in 2012. This is one style that I haven’t saved for special occasions; over the years, I’ve worn these pants more than any other pair of pants I’ve owned. Like, ever. After all these years of abuse, the material is softer and even comfier.

I’ve washed them in dodgy washing machines around the world, and they’ve even seen a few dryers (which you’re not supposed to do, FYI). The only thing I can say is that the material has thinned out a little (but not so much as to be a problem), and has also stretched out a little (due to my own weight gain/loss/gain/loss/etc. over the years).

Regarding fit in general, Anatomie advises that you can expect that the signature stretch wrinkle-free material used for their pants will stretch over time (it’s what makes Anatomie pants a custom fit, as it stretches to hug your curves perfectly). More on this later.

Washing and Drying

If you’re traveling with a limited (capsule) wardrobe, washing and drying must be easy.

Need to dry your pants in a hurry? A simple hairdryer will do the trick in just a few mins! (Almost) everything Anatomie offers is machine washable in cold water.

Machine dryers, in general, are horrible on your clothes (they exponentially accelerate deterioration), nor are they particularly environmentally friendly. Luckily most Anatomie styles dry quickly, usually overnight.

Wrinkle Free Packing

Packing light means not having a lot of space. Irons are not an option.

Are you worried about cramming those expensive duds into a packing cube? Don’t. Anatomie makes easy care travel clothes, and although some pieces may come out of your luggage looking wrinkled, the wrinkles easily fall out as soon as you put them on. You will love their wrinkle resistant fabrics, life-changing!

Other styles made of crazy comfy jersey and mesh (here are their current lightweight jackets and wide variety of shirts) are truly wrinkle free in all respects. Scrunch it up in a ball in your bag. I dare ya.

Comfort Vs. Style

There’s nothing worse than being uncomfortable. Except perhaps, being underdressed.

Luckily there’s no compromise! I’m just as comfy in my Luisa skinny jeans on a plane as I am in a pair of leggings. Except, I’m wearing something considerably more stylish than leggings. 

Even the Andrea Contrast Panel leggings are more-than-leggings.

For me, the perfect travel wardrobe has stylish travel clothes, without being pretentious. Regardless of whether you’re dressed up or down, you’re comfortable. Travel throws you enough curveballs; you’d better be comfy in your second skin.

On the topic of comfort, their Pima Cotton Tank Tops are made from Pima cotton, from Peru. I was ambivalent when they suggested I try it out (it’s a plain tank top….kinda boring right?), but it quickly became my absolute favourite top to wear. It’s suuuuuuuper soft, breathable, won’t shrink, goes with everything, and just like most of Anatomie’s styles, can be machine washed (on cold), and will dry fast.

Staying Warm

Cool/cold weather is the biggest challenge to packing light. The secret is in layering.

Most of Anatomie’s travel clothing styles are very lightweight – which is both a selling point and a challenge. The signature stretch fabric used to make most of their pants is light as a feather, which means it won’t weigh you down as you take off, but if you’re taking off to chilly places, you might be cold.

Over the years, I’ve found ways to circumvent these challenges:

Layer Under. While most of Anatomie’s travel pants are slim-fitting, there’s still room for a pair of leggings underneath for added warmth.

Layer Over. This is where Anatomie’s travel jackets shine. While one of their mesh jackets is ridiculously comfortable over a tank top and takes the edge off a summer night, it’s also warmer than it looks and can be worn over a long-sleeved top (which also shows through the mesh, and looks very nice).

The same goes for the Kenya Safari Jacket, which is hands-down their most popular travel jacket, and for good reason. It’s roomy enough to go over thicker under-layers, yet form-fitting enough to be super stylish and flattering.

If you find yourself in even chillier climes, they have a selection of quilted, cashmere, and even leather styles. I still have a style of an Anatomie travel jacket (which they don’t carry anymore) that is ideal for shoulder season climates.

2025 UPDATE: I spent two whole winters in a snowy mountain town, with the help of Anatomie’s Cozy Essentials lineup! Their fleece-lined signature styles (like the Kenya Jacket and Skyler Pants) are literally the comfiest clothes I own – super stretchy and soft. And lucky for me, they’re also the most stylish clothes I own. Best of all worlds!

Free Returns and Clothing Guarantees

Spending a lot of money on the perfect travel capsule wardrobe? Free returns are critical.

I’m still leery of ordering clothes online. Even with sizing charts, you just never know how something will fit.

Anatomie understands this, and orders placed in the U.S. include free returns. And rumour has it they’re going to offer free returns to Canadian customers very soon too!

So if you’re curious about how that shirt or pair of pants will fit, there’s no risk in ordering it and finding out first-hand.

The same goes for clothing defects. While normal wear and tear are on your own dime, if there’s a problem with an Anatomie style, they’ll send you a new pair, as I experienced myself. Anatomie wants you to be 100% happy with your clothes, as they’ve demonstrated to me repeatedly.

Travel Clothing for Women with Curves

Most people aren’t models. So how do we know if those pants will actually fit AND look good?

Over the years, I’ve grown, and not just emotionally! While I’m not disproportionate or overweight, my measurements baffle many sizing charts.

While trying to order pants and a shirt from (another) online clothing company, I couldn’t figure out which sizes to get. According to their sizing charts, I was somewhere between a Small and Medium for the shirt (but my bust measurement said I should be Large – and believe me, my boobs aren’t that spectacular). 

When it came to my lower half, my self-esteem “bottomed” out. While I was accustomed to being a size 6-8, my recent weight gain put me in the (8-10) category. This particular clothing company’s size 12 looked like it would still be too small. And….size 12 was their largest size. Who does that?!?! I have no idea what other curvy women would do if they tried to order anything from that company. (To their credit, my complaints inspired them to change their sizing charts, which is why they shall remain nameless in this post.) I simply share this story here as an example of how screwed up sizing is across the board, especially when it comes to women’s pants.

Shawn (Anatomie’s co-founder and chief designer) stood by while I tried on a huge variety of clothes, and he told me how they’re supposed to fit and made specific sizing recommendations.

Even though I wanted to err on the side of caution with larger sizes, Shawn warned me that most of Anatomie’s pants stretch up to a whole size over time; and my older Anatomie pants are testament to this. So, if your own Anatomie travel pants are a bit tight to begin with, never fear: their signature stretch fabric is a bit of a miracle-worker and will mold to your curves perfectly with time.

Here are some observations about how Anatomie’s stylish travel clothes are made for curvy women:

• The Suzette Skort has built-in jersey bicycle shorts. While this does add a bit to the packing weight and bulk, my thighs thanked me; can you say “no thigh rub??”
  (Not a fan of the short skirt? I get it. Here are their current dresses, which include some super classy styles. I own their Marine Travel Dress, which is super flattering for all figures and made of a material that can literally be balled up and stuffed into a corner of my luggage and come out ready for the runway).
• I asked Shawn which styles of Anatomie’s travel pants are best for the curvy woman; he said the Kate Pant (which I can attest to). More recently, Anatomie has come out with a whole line of pants for curvy women!
• Not all women appreciate tight shirts. While I do recommend having at least one somewhat form-fitting tank top and long-sleeved top for layering underneath jackets and such, I also like having a “let it all hang out” sort of top. Anatomie has a selection of looser-fitting tops that will turn heads; just have a browse through their tops to see their latest designs, as their styles are always changing.

Not sure yourself? Here is one of the many bangs you get for your buck with Anatomie, in addition to free returns and quality guarantees: their personal Style Concierge will assist you with personalized fit and styling tips. You’ll find their personal email on the Contact page of the website, and their assistance is very valuable (and of course, free).

Clicking the links in this article will give you 20% off site wide at Anatomie! Discount automatically applies at checkout.

Anatomie Wrinkle Resistant Clothing Recommendations

Here is what I packed when I took the challenge to travel with only Anatomie clothing. Note: many of the exact items I took with me have been discontinued. I’ve switched them out here with new items (that I own) which are comparable replacements.

Depending on the climate at your destination, you might want to adjust this selection. For example when visiting a hot climate you’ll want to switch out a jacket or long-sleeved shirt for another tank/tee. This travel capsule wardrobe is ideal for warm temperate weather.

Jackets:

Bailey Mesh Jacket (it won’t wrinkle, no matter how hard you try!)

Kenya Safari Jacket (stylish, can be worn with sleeves rolled up or down, zipped up to the neck, etc)

Tops:

Calista Rollup Henley Top (pima cotton, long-sleeved), AND/OR

Alida button-down Poplin Shirt (I love this dressy shirt because the front panel is a structured material, and the arms and back are soft stretchy jersey)

Jackson Pima Cotton Tank (a staple for any travel wardrobe, perfect on its own and for layering)

Flo Tee (note: here’s their current collection of tops to choose from)

Bottoms:

Suzette Skort (with built-in jersey bicycle shorts)

Luisa Skinny Jean OR Kate Skinny Cargo Pant (I own and adore both, but I choose just one per trip)

Darby Pant (new in 2024 to their lineup; a looser-fitting pant made with their signature stretch light material)

Clicking the links in this article will give you 20% off site wide at Anatomie! Discount automatically applies at checkout.

BONUS: My Top Packing Tips Video

I know, I know. I must sound like a psychotic cheerleader. I promise, I haven’t been drugged, nor unduly forced (or even paid) to write all these accolades. Anatomie approached to develop a long-term relationship, much like they do with all their customers. (The difference being, they started me off with a free outfit, which inspired my love affair with them. Lucky me!).

And as much as I love Anatomie, they love me too, and they’re fascinated at how I traveled with carry-on luggage only for two whole years! While I was visiting Anatomie’s headquarters this year, they turned on the cameras and got me to share my top packing tips for ultralight travel. Here’s what I had to say:

Click here to watch on YouTube

Model Pictures (Wearing Anatomie Wrinkle-Free Travel Clothes)

I’m not the best model, so if you’d like to get a closer look at some of Anatomie’s styles, keep scrolling.

Check out my Travel Lifestyle Guides for more ways to earn money remotely, spend it wisely, and balance the two so you can travel as long as you wish, in a financially sustainable way. 

Want to know more about packing for travel and the best travel clothing tips?

Check out these posts:

Anatomie Travel Clothing Made me Throw Out my Jeans

My Search for the Perfect Travel Sandal

The Ultimate Packing List for Full-Time Travel

Best Luggage for Full-Time Travel

Checked vs. Carry On Luggage (and Why Checked is Best)

Travel Packing: How and What to Pack for Full-Time Travel (VIDEO)

This post My Travel Capsule Wardrobe: Best Wrinkle Free Travel Clothes for Women appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

Please read and glean from my experience so that your next pair of travel sandals are the best, most practical, most fashionable, and most comfortable sandals that get you through thick and thin.

Although the first version of this article was published in 2013, I re-wrote and republished it in 2018, and at least once a year since then I update it for accuracy of links and content (and I add new sandals and travel-sandal-strategies I’ve tried along the way).
For example, make sure you read through to the “barefoot sandals” section to see how my own journey through various travel sandals has evolved.

Also, I received some sandals for free (and paid for others). If I don’t mention that I received the sandals for free, then it means I paid full price.
Lastly, you’ll find this post has affiliate links, which means if you click a link and make a purchase, I’ll get paid. This doesn’t affect your price, but it does help me keep running this site….so thank you in advance.

TL:DR – The Best Sandals for Travel

This post meanders a bit. If you’ve got 10 or so minutes to read the whole thing, you’ll learn how to evaluate any and all sandals on the market to choose the best ones for your personal travel style.

But if you’re like many/most people, you won’t read the whole thing, so here’s the summary:

BEST OVERALL SANDAL FOR TRAVEL: Feelgrounds Seaside sandals
(Lightweight, easy to pack, stays on foot, stylish. Men: Pathway style is for you)
Use THEPROFESSIONALHOBO5 for 5% off!

SECOND CHOICE: Taos
(Huge variety of styles; Trophy is the one I had)

2026 TESTING WITH HIGH HOPES: Vivaia Demi

Attempt #1: Crocs

Crocs were my go-to for many years – specifically the Cleo style, which is both fashionable and functional.

The Good

Because Crocs are waterproof, they survived dodgy hostel showers and muddy walks, and the arch support meant they made it through many a long walk without causing me pain.

The style I chose combined fashion and function, and as such I could dress them up or down with relative ease.

They pack up like a dream, since they’re lightweight and relatively thin.

If the Cleo (pictured above) isn’t your style, no problemo; Crocs makes a gazillion different styles to choose from.

Basically I lived in these shoes, for many years.

The Bad

Or rather, I lived in (many pairs of) these shoes, for many years. Unfortunately because I wore them daily (and I love to walk), I wore through a pair about every year.

Although Crocs aren’t horribly expensive, this did mean dishing out cash for a new pair each year – and finding a place to buy them or have them delivered to (which isn’t always an easy chore when traveling full-time or staying somewhere obscure).

Even more distressing, was how unbelievably slippery Crocs were on wet surfaces. Certain types of sidewalk, stone, and any inside flooring when wet, became major hazards. I took a few spills in these shoes, especially as the tread on the bottom started to wear. (It’s ironic, because Crocs were originally designed as boat shoes).

Lastly – and this is good and bad – the Cleo and other slip-on styles are uber-easy to use on a daily basis, but if you are doing any kind of trail walking or water sports, this style of Crocs will slip away entirely.

This can be solved with a different style of Croc however; I tried out two pairs: the Isabella Strappy Sandal, and the Tulum (both appear to be discontinued as of March 2024, however there are other new Crocs styles that may appeal). Both are stylish and easy to slip-on, and don’t easily come off the foot. (However I also had trouble breaking in the Isabella (it never stopped chafing my heels), and the Tulum didn’t quite fit my foot correctly; I kept slipping off the side while walking (but perhaps that more about my gait than the shoes). The Tulum stays on your foot better and could conceivably be used for light water sport activities, but it’s not ideal for hitting the trails. Keep reading this article for sport sandal suggestions).

Overall

I owned three pairs of the slip-on Cleo Crocs in the first few years of my full-time travels, and they have a ton of styles to suit your preferences. They definitely earned their place in my travel bag.

But keep reading for some alternatives and different viewpoints, since what I need may not be the same as what you need in the perfect travel sandal.

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Attempt #2: Naots

I love Naots. I had a pair of them when I was a teenager, and they survived almost 10 years of solid abuse. So when Naot contacted me and asked if I wanted to reunite with these lovely babies (I received a complementary pair to review), I could hardly wait to get my tootsies into a new pair.

The Good

Although Naots come in many different styles, they specialize in a footbed that is akin to Birkenstocks; they offer full support, customized feel, anti-microbial properties, and a fit that only gets better with time.

I chose a pair that suits my style, knowing I could dress them up or down as I wished.

They were great for walking miles and miles on the city streets without a hint of foot fatigue. I got many (many) compliments on them!

The Bad

The large deep footbed meant they weren’t compact or lightweight. However if you don’t want a deep footbed, Naot has a few different styles of footbed to choose from.

Incidentally, my Naots were destroyed a head-on collision I had in Grenada before I really had a chance to put them through their paces. I owned them for a few months.

Overall

I still love Naots. But I chose a bad style for my needs and foot shape, and I didn’t have a chance to try them on first. (If you order them online, best to ensure you can return them easily if they don’t fit). Choose the right style, and they could make for a great travel sandal.

Attempt #3: Taos (Best Sandals for Walking in Europe)

Taos makes high-quality shoes and sandals in an astonishing variety of styles.

I was contacted by Taos to test-drive a (free) pair after being bereaved of my Naots in the accident, so I tried to apply all the lessons I learned from the above pairs of shoes and choose what would be the perfect pair of travel sandals.

The Good

The footbed is high-quality with contouring, support, custom fit over time, and anti-microbial properties. (You can also choose different types of footbeds from the deep bed similar to the Naots above, to a more sleek version as shown here).

I chose the Trophy style (pictured above) because they can be dressed up or down, they’re relatively light and compact to pack away, and the ankle straps make them way more stable for walking, running (as in, to catch a bus), and even taking to (light) trails.

They’re super comfy to wear all day (and all night), with their special “Taos Soft Support premium footbed with Cool Recovery Foam”. 

I also like the velcro adjustments on the ankle straps as well as both toe straps; this makes the fit always comfortable (even if my feet swell), and getting them on and off is almost as easy as having slip-ons.

The Bad

If the microfiber footbed gets wet, it’s bad news. After living in them for a couple of years (years, mind you), I got them super wet. After that the footbed pilled (uncomfortably so), and started smelling bad. Other readers have had similar troubles. If you suffer from sweaty feet, you might not get a couple of years out of them (as I did) before they start pilling and smelling.

Having said this, the Trophy sandals that I tried have since been replaced by sandals that feature a special antimicrobial shield, for lasting protection against odour, staining, and deterioration. 

And, um….well, I don’t have anything else bad to say about these shoes.

Overall

In this comparison, Taos wins so far as the perfect travel sandal. It’s one of the best sandals for walking long distances, and they straddle fashion and function perfectly.

But I also encourage you to read between the lines here; it’s not necessarily (or entirely) the shoe itself; it’s the choice and style of shoe.

I learned from mistakes past, and ensured I had a fashionable, compact, stable, solid shoe that – like so many of the items in my full-time travel entourage – serves many purposes.

See also: The Ultimate Packing List for Full-Time Travel

2026 Contender for Best Travel Sandal of All Time: Vivaia

I’ve been a fan of Vivaia sustainable washable shoes for years, and I wear almost exclusively Vivaia shoes. But until recently, they didn’t have any sandals that fit my strict criteria for being a great travel sandal…until now.

These are the Demi style of sandal, by Vivaia. They do everything the Trophy sandal does above, and they’re a bit lighter and more compact for travel. The footbed is very comfy with good support, and the straps are adjustable with just enough stretch that once you have the buckle adjusted for your ankle you can slip them on and off without fussing.

They’re stylish and can be dressed up or down with ease.

I plan to travel-test my new AdaptAll Flat Sandals (Demi) by Vivaia this summer. Stay tuned.

Vivaia has tons of different sandals as well as sneakerinas (including a celeb-fav that was featured on Oprah), mary-janes, loafers, boots, and much more. I have a lot of Vivaia shoes in my closet, and many of their shoes are so light and packable I can actually break my ultralight packing rules and take a couple of pairs on each trip.

Check out Vivaia here and use 10NORA for $10 off!

Qualities of a Perfect Travel Sandal

Learning from my experiences above, here are some of the qualities that – for me, and likely for you – make for the perfect travel sandal:

• Water resistant
• Comfortable footbed for walking
• Good sole for walking on multiple surfaces
• Ankle straps to hold the foot in place and increase versatility
• Stylish for multiple occasions
• Easy to put on and take off
• Lightweight and compact for packing
  
  

Check out my Travel Lifestyle Guides for more ways to earn money remotely, spend it wisely, and balance the two so you can travel as long as you wish, in a financially sustainable way. 

Honourable Mentions (including Men’s Sandals)

Crocs, Naots, and Taos are far from the only travel sandals out there; they’re simply the brands I test drove when I initially wrote this article. Here are some other travel sandal recommendations; tried and true according to both readers and travel colleagues, as well as subsequent personal experience. If the shoes above don’t float your boat or suit your travel style, perhaps the ones below will.

And Men, rejoice! Many of the sandals below offer Unisex and Men’s styles as well.

Waterproof Travel Sandals (Sports Sandals)

While Crocs are waterproof, they’re not the sort of “technical” sandal you might be looking for if you’re into water sports and muddy hikes. Personally, I don’t like the classic original “Teva” style of sandal, but some people don’t mind it, and I must admit, these waterproof sport travel sandals have come a long way since their single-style beginnings.

For example, the Teva Tirra Athletic Sandal comes extremely highly reviewed, and has a compression-molded EVA midsole with some impressive looking arch support.

Chaco also carries an extensive popular waterproof line of sport sandals (along with some more stylish leather and rubber styles).

Do you like the Birkenstock style and wish they had a unisex lightweight waterproof version? Well, wish no more; it exists, and it’s called Birkenstock EVA (pictured here). They’re relatively cheap, and they come in a few different styles and a gazillion different colours. They’re not sport sandals per se, but they’re waterproof and are apparently great for walking.
2024 Update: Birkenstock seems to have discontinued their EVA style, but you can find the same thing here, and it’s a bestseller on Amazon.

Barefoot Sandals for Travel (for men and women) – 2026 Update

Barefoot shoes in general are all the rage, and they’re the ideal travel sandal in that they’re lightweight….ultra lightweight in fact.

And in the last 10 years I have developed a love affair with barefoot shoes for hiking, running, working out, casual excursions, and generally all things travel.

I’ve spent the last couple of years traveling with Xero’s best-selling Xero Prio shoe, which I think is the best all-round travel shoe for walking around town, exercising, and even light hikes. You can see them in action in this video review.

But I’m getting off-track. This article is about sandals.

Attempt #1: Xero Barefoot Sandals

As much as I mentioned earlier that I’m not a fan of sport sandals, given how much I loved Xero’s barefoot shoes (and I’m a devout fan of traveling long-term with carry-on luggage only), I figured I would put my fashion sensibilities aside and try Xero barefoot sandals – specifically the Z-Trail EV style. I wanted this style because it has the beefiest sole of them all, and I was worried the other styles might feel more like paper and not provide any protection.

Instead, when I got them in the mail, I was surprised at just how sturdy these things are! I mean, they’re still light as air at just 4.3oz each (yeah, you read that right), but the sole has some meat to it.

Unfortunately after a summer of trying to love them, I had to admit they didn’t do it for me.

The style was my biggest complaint; they’re okay for sport or super casual scenarios, but not multi-purpose enough to wear anywhere else. But even for sport, I couldn’t get the fit right with the straps for walking/hiking on anything that wasn’t completely flat. My foot wasn’t stable in them and slid around (similar to the Tulum style of Crocs, which also have a very thin flat sole), and because of that plus the super low profile of the sandal, my feet (and the footbeds) were always getting dirty such that I had to wash both my feet and shoes at the end of each outing.

I really wanted these to be my top pick of travel sandals. And perhaps they could be for you, if you like the style and have a different-shaped foot/different gait. For summer hikes and casual excursions, with the added benefit of being ridiculously packable, water-friendly, secure on the foot, and even with webbing made from recycled water bottles, they’re not bad, but they’re just not for me.

I may still take mine on trips where I’ll be doing serious outdoorsy stuff that require waterproof sandals (like white-water rafting), but they’re not all-around useful enough for me to pack every time.

Attempt #2: Feelgrounds Seaside Luxe Barefoot Sandals – My Current Pick for Best Travel Sandal

NEW IN 2024, Feelgrounds sent me a pair of their Seaside Luxe sandals. Feelgrounds is a barefoot shoe company based in Europe. I love the look of all their shoes, because they don’t look like barefoot shoes. They’re stylish, functional, and as a company they are committed to environmental responsibility and fair production practices.

The Feelgrounds Seaside Luxe sandal makes up for everything I didn’t like about the Xero Z-trail (and frankly, all of Xero’s sandals). They don’t look like a barefoot sandal!

Here’s what I love about them:

• The vegan leather straps provide an elevated sense of style. I get compliments every time I wear them.
• The adjustable cushioned velcro strap at the back provides a perfect fit, and along with the soft fabric toe thong, it holds your foot in place.
• The elastic bit on the instep provides the perfect amount of stretch for comfort.
• The natural cork insole looks nice and gives the foot a chance to breathe. (If you don’t like that look, they also offer an all-black version).
• The 7mm sole is ultralight and thin, while still being thick enough to provide some shock absorption and protection when walking on hard surfaces.
• They’re super flexible and ultralight at 153 grams / 5.4 oz for a Men’s size 10 / Women’s 11.5
• They pack up like a dream.
  

Here are the compromises:

• After a summer of use, the cork footbed started to discolour from foot moisture. It is very minimal so far, but will likely continue as the years go on; if this is something that would bother you, then I suggest getting the all-black style.
• They are not waterproof, nor are they appropriate for sports activities.
• Although there is some shock absorption, it’s not a lot; nowhere near the protection you would get from even a barefoot sneaker. I discovered this while speed-walking long distances on concrete surfaces; my shins started to ache. I tend to come down hard on my heels when I walk fast, so I’m sure that’s the culprit.
  

Even so, Feelgrounds Seaside Luxe sandals are top contenders for great travel sandals. They pack up like a dream, they stay on my foot, and they look great in all scenarios.

BONUS: Use THEPROFESSIOALHOBO5 for a 5% discount!

Shout Out to the Flip Flop

All over Asia, it’s common to take off your shoes everywhere; especially when entering temples, but even when entering some restaurants and stores. (And certainly when entering anybody’s home).

In these cases, flip-flops are invaluable. They’re comfortable, easy to slip on and off, and you won’t be upset if somebody else walks away in them (as commonly happens in public places).

While spending a month “suffering” in Koh Phangan Thailand, I watched my boyfriend struggle with his clunky Tevas every single time we entered or left a restaurant or store. We were both relieved when he finally caved and bought a cheapo pair of flip-flops.

Flip-flops are also great to have on hand for shared showers and other situations where you want some waterproof foot protection. And they’re so lightweight they can easily fit in your luggage. Regardless of the travel sandal I am using at any given time, I tend to have a pair of flip-flops stashed in my bag as well.

Interested in Travel Gear? Then You’ll LOVE the Following Posts:

The Ultimate Packing List for Full-Time Travel

Checked vs Carry-On Luggage (and Why Checked is Best)

My Travel Capsule Wardrobe: Best Wrinkle-Free Travel Clothes for Women

The Best Travel Clothes for Men

Maximize Your Luggage Space and Minimize Time Spent Packing! The Best Packing Tools and Accessories

The Best Anti-Theft Gear

…and dozens of Travel Gear Reviews! 

This post My Search for the Perfect Travel Sandal appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

It was cheap, and easy to find.

But there are a few tricks to doing it right; here’s what I learned about finding apartments in Chiang Mai.

SEE ALSO: How to Book Monthly Digital Nomad Accommodation (alternatives to AirBnB)

Click here to watch this video on YouTube.

Chiang Mai Apartments: How to Find an Apartment in Chiang Mai

As I expounded on in another article, Chiang Mai is the Digital Nomad Centre of the Universe. More specifically, the Nimman area of Chiang Mai is the beating heart of this digital nomad headquarters. (See also: Chiang Mai’s Nimman: The Unapologetic Bubble)

Hundreds (if not thousands) of digital nomads descend upon Chiang Mai every year, often staying for months at a time. Many even come for a month or two, and fall in love with the culture/amenities/social scene/cost of living so much, they stay for much much longer. Similar to Bali, it’s one of those places that sucks you in and doesn’t always spit you back out.

The Thai people are very smart and incredibly entrepreneurial; instead of resisting the onslaught of visitors holding wads of Euros/Dollars and craving some modern comforts at affordable prices, they welcome them. As such, an entire industry of serviced apartments exists. These furnished apartments are available for monthly rentals, often with lower rates if you commit for six months or a year.

Here’s how to find an apartment in Chiang Mai, and get a good price while you’re at it.

Step One: Book Only Your First Few Nights Before Arriving

Although I had to lean into a lot of discomfort, I resisted the urge to book an apartment (through AirBnB) for the duration of my stay prior to arrival. Given what I knew of the cost of living in Chiang Mai, the online prices made no sense. I knew I could do better. So I just booked my first three nights, specifically at a place called The Dome, which is conveniently located within walking distance of both the old city and the heart of the Nimman district.

Not convinced The Dome is in the right area or will suit your needs? Check out some of the best deals for Chiang Mai accommodation here: 

Now. I found my apartment in half a day, so I didn’t even need three full nights in a hotel. But if you’re arriving in Chiang Mai during the peak season for digital nomads and tourists (typically December/January), you might not find an apartment as quickly. Depending on your budget and criteria, three nights may be more than enough. Or perhaps you’ll need a bit longer.

Step Two: Get a SIM Card

Although most of the apartments I looked at had staffed reception areas, apparently some just have noticeboards with phone numbers to call. Either way, you’ll need a phone number for the reservation and leasing process. SIM cards are cheap and cheerful in Thailand, with great data plans. I bought my SIM card in Bangkok airport while waiting for my luggage to arrive on the carousel.

(See also: Cell Phone Travel Basics: International Phone Plans, SIM Cards, and More)

Step Three: Take a Walk

The best place to find out where you want to live is to walk around. If you prefer, you can cover more ground on a bicycle or a scooter. (Me? I’m not inclined to rent scooters in foreign countries after suffering a near-fatal accident on one in the Caribbean, and especially not in big cities on arrival. But if you’re more comfortable with the idea, knock yourself out – figuratively speaking, that is).

Step Four: Find Apartment Buildings in Chiang Mai Neighborhoods

There are a few neighbourhoods that have groupings of condos that typically have an allotment of apartments for short/medium-term rentals. One of these neighbourhoods is just north of the Maya Lifestyle Shopping Centre. Green Hill is a popular complex, as is PromT and Moda. Further south are some other places, such as Hillside (which is near to a co-working space I quite enjoyed frequenting called Mana).

Keep your eyes peeled not only for buildings themselves, but if these don’t stick out at you, look for signs; anything from billboard ads to small handwritten signs at intersections will direct you to buildings where you can rent an apartment.

Perhaps you’d prefer to find a place outside of the Nimman area, closer to the old city, or the University, or the “mountain”. If you have a scooter, you’ll have more possibilities. Take a drive, and also, ask around. There are also a couple of websites that have listings for apartments, such as Perfect Homes and Faz Waz (Faz Waz being a tool you can use to find places all over Thailand), and you can always lurk one of the Facebook Groups dedicated to expats; I found the Chiang Mai Digital Nomads group to be useful on a variety of levels.

Step Five: Ask/Call

Like I said, many of these buildings are condominiums that have staffed reception areas. This makes it dead easy; simply walk in and ask if they have any vacancies. The pricing is usually standardized and the process simple. If there is a vacancy that suits your needs, ask to see the apartment (this should go without saying).

Other buildings may not have a reception area, but instead a notice board at the front where unit owners can post their own vacancies with a phone number to call. Have at ‘er.

Step Six: Confirm Fees

Before you commit, make sure you know what you’re getting into. Most apartments require one to two months’ rent as a security deposit, which will be refunded to you when you leave (assuming you haven’t trashed the place).

Rent varies, and is generally on the rise from year to year, as Chiang Mai (and more specifically the Nimman area) increases in popularity. The general rate for a one bedroom furnished apartment in 2017 was 10,000-15,000 Thai baht (about $300-450).

You’re also usually responsible for paying utilities. Find out what the rate is (the rate in my building was 5 baht per kw for electricity, and 35 baht per water unit – in the end it worked out to about 800 baht/month for (a very conservative use of) electricity and 200/month for water. On moving in, make sure you know what the starting meter readings are, and also where the meters are so you can monitor your usage (air conditioning is the killer). There are some horror stories of people being presented with outrageous utility bills on leaving that they couldn’t dispute because they didn’t have enough information nor time to sort it out (with a plane to catch or the like).

In my case, I was also informed that I’d be responsible for a 500 baht cleaning fee on vacating the apartment, and I was also promised that the apartment would be cleaned free of charge prior to moving in (and it was).

Step Seven: Pay a Deposit

To reserve your apartment for the move-in date (if you’re not moving in the same day), you’re going to have to put some cash on the line right away. (For my apartment it was 5,000 Thai Baht – about $150).

On move-in day, the 5,000 became a down payment for the refundable security deposit.

All my fees were payable in cash, so be prepared to make a trip to the ATM.

Step Eight: Move Into Your New Apartment!

…and enjoy! Although this system for how to find an apartment in Chiang Mai works really well in Chiang Mai, it may not work as well in other cities that aren’t as well equipped for short/medium-term renters (aka: digital nomads). More recently, I applied this process to finding an apartment in Hoi An (Vietnam), and I found a dedicated Facebook Group (Hoi An Expats Property – Buy and Rent) to be the most valuable.

Considering I’ve been on the road for over 11 years, you’d think I have more experience finding apartments around the world. Strangely, I don’t. That’s because the vast majority of the time, I have chosen my destinations based on a specific opportunity to go there, which, much of the time, involved free accommodation like house-sitting or volunteering. This made it exponentially easier to get my bearings; all I had to do was arrive and plug myself into whatever community/local neighbourhood awaited me. Not only did this save me a ton of money on accommodation, but it was incredibly rewarding. (See also: How to Get Free Accommodation Around the World)

Although, as I’ve discovered, there’s also something to be said for having your own space without the commitment of volunteering, nor the onus to care for somebody else’s home and pets (which often also restricts your time and movements). It’s all a trade-off, and depends on how you wish to live your life on the road.

Be sure to watch my video on how to find an apartment in Chiang Mai, including a tour of my sweet little pad!

You’ll Also Want to Check Out….

Chiang Mai, 10 Years Later: The Impossible Search

Chiang Mai’s Nimman: The Unapologetic Bubble

Things to do in Chiang Mai

This post How to Find an Apartment in Chiang Mai: A Step-by-Step Guide appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

This post was originally published in 2017. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content.

Traveling through India on the Deccan Odyssey (the most luxurious train in the world) was akin to a dream come true for me. I’ve experienced (and written extensively about) long-distance train travel. But when I booked a mistake air fare to India on a whim, I had no idea I’d follow my cheap flight with such a decadent experience.

Because let’s get it right: I don’t exactly earn an income in keeping with a trip like the Deccan Odyssey, which is super-deluxe-luxury stuff. Although I’ve often said that financially sustainable travel is not synonymous with budget travel (some full-time travelers earn six figures; so they can spend accordingly), I’ll also admit that my current income is definitely not in keeping with this trip.

So it’s important to disclose that this trip was free for me, many thanks to Cox & Kings (India’s favourite tour company and the world’s longest-standing one) who actually owns the Deccan Odyssey train; some personal connections I made with the folks at Cox & Kings while speaking at a travel conference a few months prior paved the way to this experience.
2021 Update: Cox & Kings is out of business.

I may not earn a ton of money, but this job definitely has its perks.

Four Days on the Deccan Odyssey

My four days aboard the Deccan Odyssey train in India flew by. After boarding in Jaipur (halfway through it’s journey from Delhi to Mumbai), I spent the first day getting acquainted with the train’s many amenities while the passengers were out touring. The following day was a full one in Udaipur.

Unfortunately I awoke the following morning with a migraine so I missed the morning’s activities in Vadodara. Luckily everybody returned to the train for lunch and I was shipshape to join them for the afternoon visit to Laxmi Vilas Palace (the largest palace in India, and close to the largest in the world).

The following day, the morning was spent doing my absolute favourite thing to do on trains (lie in bed and watch the world go by); something I’d have liked a bit more of, but I’m in the minority in that club – most of the Deccan Odyssey passengers saw the train more as a means to tour around India’s destinations, rather than the train being the destination unto itself. (But I’m weird that way).

That afternoon, we visited Ellora Caves in Aurangabad; an extensive network of caves that have been hand-carved into temples of beauty, mythology, and acoustic grace. When we returned to the train for our collective last night on board the Deccan Odyssey, a surprise was awaiting each of us in our cabins: specially chosen traditional Indian outfits (saris for women) and a Bollywood party to attend! I’m not sure if my crazy Bollywood-esque moves impressed or horrified the guests and staff alike, but either way I was a great source of amusement for all.

Join me for my Last Two Days Aboard the Deccan Odyssey

This is the kind of trip that is best experienced through (moving) pictures, not words. Check out the video below to see the largest palace in India, catch me singing a song in one of the Ellora cave echo chambers, and kickin’ it Bollywood style to cap it all off!

Click here to watch this video on YouTube.

Just in Case You Missed It…

Acclimatizing to India, In Jaipur

Touring India’s Deccan Odyssey: Most Luxurious Train in the World!

Udaipur India, with the Deccan Odyssey Luxury Train

Heaven and Hell: Panchakarma as Reflected in (My Time In) India

This post Traveling on the Deccan Odyssey (Pt 3): Palaces, Caves, and Bollywood! appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

This post was originally published in 2017. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content.

Traveling/Touring With the Deccan Odyssey

The Deccan Odyssey is much (much) more than a simple train ride. If you missed my post/video last week with a tour of the train, I highly recommend this opportunity to see what the most luxurious train in the world looks like.

But the Deccan Odyssey is more than just a super-luxurious train with an insane amount of amenities and attentive staff. It’s a way to see India. Each night before bed the following day’s itinerary is lovingly left on every pillow as part of the turn-down service. They’re full days of touring, often with early starts. It’s an all-inclusive and very easy way to see India, with everything laid out and a different local guide meeting passengers every morning to escort them on the day’s adventures, which often include some very exclusive experiences (lunch at palace in the middle of a lake? Why, thank you!).

A fellow passenger best described the Deccan Odyssey as being like a “cruise on rails”; all your needs are catered to on the boat (er….train), and each morning you arrive at a new destination that you have a chance to get a little taste of, before re-boarding and moving on to the next destination. So while a cruise (and likewise, a trip on the Deccan Odyssey train) isn’t a chance to dig too deep into local cultures, you’ll cover a lot of territory and figure out where you might like to return to, later in your trip, or later in life. Where the Deccan Odyssey has cruises beat hands-down (well, aside from the fact that it’s a train!), is that with such a small group of passengers and some very knowledgable staff, it’s a much more intimate experience allowing a more private audience with local experts for questions to be answered.

And, for the record, this experience on the Deccan Odyssey was free for me, courtesy of Cox & Kings, the longest-established travel company in the world, who also happens to own this train. They conceded me this treat because I wrote a book about trains (thus demonstrating my crazy love of trains). Oh yeah, and I begged, just a little.
2021 Update: Cox & Kings is out of business.

I joined the Deccan Odyssey halfway through its trip from Delhi to Mumbai, so passengers had already visited the Taj Mahal, done tiger safaris, visited Jaipur’s forts, and more. Given that Udaipur was my first full day on board the train, it was a pretty spectacular one.

Udaipur, India

Udaipur (everybody’s favourite city in India) is also known as the “city of Lakes” or even “Venice of the East”. Being in the state of Rajasthan which is known for palaces and forts and princely things, Udaipur is no exception.

My full day in Udaipur started off at the City Palace (a giant palace known for its detailed mosaics), continued with a boat ride to the Pleasure Palace for lunch (and if your mind just went to a dirty place, you’re not wrong; the Pleasure Palace was constructed in the middle of a lake for the prince at the time to take his flings and, well….fling). We continued on to an artist’s studio (Udaipur is known for it’s miniature art, which is pretty spectacular), and finished off with a stroll through the local fruit/veg/spice market (where I took about a million pictures).

Visit Udaipur With Me, on the Deccan Odyssey!

Enough descriptives and still images; watch this short video to get a taste of the day for yourself. It’s pretty divine.

Click to watch this video on YouTube

Just in Case You Missed It…

Acclimatizing to India, In Jaipur

Touring India’s Deccan Odyssey: Most Luxurious Train in the World!

And next up: The Deccan Odyssey, Part 3: Palaces, Caves, and Bollywood

This post Udaipur India, with the Deccan Odyssey Luxury Train appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

My Indian adventures thus far had already begun on a pretty divine note, at the Fairmont in Jaipur. Little did I know the fun had only begun. After a few days of getting my feet wet in “the real” Jaipur (the apres-Fairmont Jaipur, that is), I was whisked back off to luxury la-la-land aboard the Deccan Odyssey.

What Business do I Have on the Most Luxurious Train in the World, You Ask?

Great question. Let me tell you.

I’ll save you the speech about how financially sustainable travel is not synonymous with budget travel (even though it’s true), and how if I happened to be a bit more flush than I am, I could have paid my way. Cuz I didn’t pay my way.

The beautiful people at Cox & Kings paid my way; mostly because they heard me talk at a travel conference and they liked my style and wanted to work with me. Cox & Kings is the world’s oldest tour company, and they’re based in India (though they offer trips around the world). When I discovered they owned a train, it was game over.
Update 2021: Cox & Kings is apparently out of business.

Why was it game over? Because, if you didn’t already know, I have an evangelical love of long-distance train travel; to the point that I’ve done some epic (some may say epically stupid) train journeys around the world. I even wrote a book about it.

So as I was ironing out my initial few days in India, I realized I would be in Jaipur when the illustrious Deccan Odyssey would be pulling in, halfway through its journey from Delhi to Mumbai. I suggested if they happened to have some space, perhaps I could hop on? And they said yes.

And here I am. On the most luxurious train in the world: the Deccan Odyssey, in India.

What is the Most Luxurious Train in the World Like, You Ask?

Another great question.

It’s crazy.

Of the 21 train cars, there are just 16 passenger cabins. So for a very long train, it’s a pretty small number of guests. This leaves space for some gargantuan passenger cabins (by far the largest I’ve ever seen, with bathrooms that blew my mind – for a train). In addition, there are two restaurant cars, a bar car, a rec room/library, spa (!), gym (!!), and more.

Yes, there’s a spa, and a gym, on the Deccan Odyssey.

I know, right? Wow.

And then there’s the service. I believe the number of people working on the train actually outnumbered the number of guests, although it wasn’t totally full when I was on board; a full occupancy of guests would probably see close to a 1:1 employee/passenger ratio. So as you can imagine, the Deccan Odyssey’s wheels are well-greased.

I had my own valet/butler. Actually, that’s not true. I had to “rough it” by sharing him with another passenger cabin or two. Guests with Presidential Suites have dedicated valets. He not only cleaned my cabin daily and turned down the bed each night, but he provided wake-up calls with the drink of my choice. I also had a phone in my cabin with my valet on speed dial whenever I needed anything. When I first boarded the train, if I was leaving my room or coming back to my room, he would just pop up out of nowhere and insist on accompanying me. He even tried (unsuccessfully) to carry my purse!

The Deccan Odyssey’s hospitality on the whole was incredible. The guest manager had some outrageous stories to share with us each evening while prepping us for the day to come, as we sipped drinks in the bar car. The coordinators who came along with us on each day’s tours were enthusiastic and informative. We even had a dedicated paramedic quietly playing wallflower for whenever a guest needed anything from painkillers to bug bite treatment to whatever. And at meal-time on the train, the wait staff were tripping over each other to be of service.

Which brings me to the food. Earning a moniker like the most luxurious train in the world means the food is top-notch. With both an Indian and International menu on board, all tastes were catered to. The Indian menu changed daily according to the local cuisines where the train was at the moment, which was a nice touch. Anorexics, need not apply. The food on this train is just too good to pass up. (Though I will admit with some gratitude that the portions of the multi-course meals were small enough that I wasn’t over-stuffed at each meal).

Wanna See?

Pictures don’t do this experience justice. Come with me on this tour of the Deccan Odyssey. As you will see in the video, I’m pretty damn giddy about the experience.

Click here to watch this video on YouTube.

The Fun has Just Begun!

The plushness of the Deccan Odyssey extends way beyond the train itself; it’s a full-meal-deal sort of experience. Check out two more posts and videos on my adventures aboard the Deccan Odyssey:

Udaipur India, with the Deccan Odyssey Luxury Train

Traveling on the Deccan Odyssey (Pt 3): Palaces, Caves, and Bollywood!

A Final Note About Semantics

Is the Deccan Odyssey really the most luxurious train in the world? Well, it’s debatable. It has received awards for being the best luxury train. The difference between “best luxury train” and “most luxurious train” could be semantics, or not.

When I look up most luxurious trains, Google shows me a bunch of trains I’ve ridden: The Ghan and The Indian Pacific (in Australia), the Canadian and the Rocky Mountaineer (Canada), the Trans-Siberian (Russia), and more. (Most of these trains are covered in my book. Just saying.)

Although I haven’t experienced other contenders like the Blue Train (South Africa) and the Maharaj’s Express (India), I can say that from the trains I’ve ridden, the Deccan Odyssey wins the prize for most luxurious train in the world – hands down – in my books.

Accommodation in India

Looking for a place to stay in India (perhaps before or after your Deccan Odyssey adventures)? You’re in luck! There’s something for everybody. Have a look: 

Things to do in India

To anybody who is visiting India for the first time, I strongly suggest taking (at least a few) organized tours. India can be an overwhelming place at the best of times, and it’s difficult to make the sorts of connections that allow you to learn about the place, as well as stay safe and ensure you’re not being ripped off or scammed. Check out some of the bestselling things to do in India below, and save yourself a whole lotta stress and aggravation! Also, check out my friend’s guide to taking trains, planes, and autos in India!

This post Touring India’s Deccan Odyssey: Most Luxurious Train in the World! appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

This post was originally published in 2017. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content.

Preparing For India

Prior to arriving in India, I read The Shadow that Seeks the Sun; a new release written by a guy who spent a chunk of every year in Rishikesh for a while. The book tackles some ambitious spiritual topics, but refreshing ones that made me fall even harder in love with the idea of visiting Rishikesh and finding some friendly local stranger with whom I could have spiritual talks on the steps of the holy Ganges river. (Spoiler alert: I ended up in Rishikesh and received quite the punch-in-the-gut (Indian style) on arrival, before relaxing into the place (a bit) and being a hermit for a two-week detox. More on that in a later post.)

I also watched a movie called The Shack on the plane to Delhi, which although not based on India, featured some concepts that would serve me well, such as releasing my idea of judging what is good and bad.

And lastly, I watched the movie Lion, which is simply a gorgeous movie (based partly in India) that made me cry. A lot.

Oh yeah, and for the record, Shantaram (set in India) is one of my top three favourite books of all-time. (Though a friend of mine who is all about India says there are heaps of books about India that are far better!) 

Arriving in India

So I figured I was on the best possible footing to arrive in India. In the spirit of dichotomy (something India is famous for), I recorded an anxiety-ridden FB Live Video the day before I left, before embodying a bit of zen and surrendering to whatever the place would be.

It didn’t hurt that after a hectic arrival and near missed connection, my first four days in India were spent at The Fairmont in Jaipur – the best 5-star hotel in Jaipur. I met up with an old friend and travel writing colleague (Mariellen of BreatheDreamGo) and we lapped up the luxury for four days of Fairmont ecstasy.

The Fairmont was a blissful experience, and I’m not just saying that because they hosted Mariellen and I for free; it’s a destination unto itself, and if you’re looking to ease into – or out of – India (or need a rest in the middle), I highly recommend this splurge – a splurge, which, all things considered is well priced for what you get.

But let’s get it right. Staying within the confines of the Fairmont’s delightful embrace was hardly the India I was braced for.

Acclimatizing to India in Jaipur

My acclimatization started while staying in Jaipur city (the Fairmont being about 20kms outside of Jaipur). Again, I had it pretty easy. Mariellen being familiar with Jaipur, selected the Bani Park area for us to stay in, because it is a quiet residential area but still accessible to everywhere. I hopped on Booking.com and picked Om Niwas which was decent enough for the money.

Looking for accommodation in Jaipur? Check out these deals: 

A Note About the Cost of Accommodation/Living in India

One of my bigger initial surprises about India is the cost of things. I’d always been led to believe that everything in India is dirt cheap. Not so. (Like, at all).

Although India may be considered a developing country with some shocking amounts of poverty, it also has the world’s largest middle class, and it also has some of the world’s greatest wealth. The most expensive house in the world…is in India. The most luxurious train in the world…is in India (more on that next week). So, similar to Bali, India is a place where you can pay as much or as little for something as you wish.

Mariellen’s advice to me was to stick to accommodation in the 2,000-3,000 rupee/night range ($30-45); this was considerably higher than what I had expected to pay. Later in the trip I broke her rule a few times and didn’t suffer for it. But it’s wise to check out a place first (or book just the first couple of nights online so you can leave if it’s a dive); in many places I couldn’t find a particularly logical correlation between what you pay for and what you get.

Walking in Jaipur

On with my tale of acclimatizing to India. After a night in Jaipur together, Mariellen was on her merry way to Delhi, and I was left to my own devices in Jaipur. I didn’t cover off all the touristy sites as many people would do; instead, I went for a (very long) walk, to and through the Pink City.

You know what? It wasn’t so bad. The best way I could define the India (as I’d come to know it through a couple of days in Jaipur) is that it’s like all the little things you need to be aware of when you travel through other countries – like beggars, and touts, and scams, and crowds, and noise, and dirt – combined, and intensified.

If that doesn’t sound like a very good time, well, it’s not. But it does have a certain indescribable charm to it that’s probably responsible for the far-away dreamy look people get when they refer to their time in India. If anything, it’s exotic, and like nowhere you’ve ever traveled to before. That, I believe is the main allure for people who travel to and love India.

I’m going to cap my observations of India at this for the moment. I have much more to say, but all in good time. This story has an arc, and it must be followed. Stay tuned.

Walking in Jaipur, Vlog Ep. 29

Please enjoy this short film of my long walk through Jaipur, to get a feel for the place.

Click here to watch this Jaipur video on YouTube

Things to do in Jaipur

If you’re at all worried about traveling in India, then I highly recommend not only shelling out some decent cash for a nice place to stay, but also, to go on organized tours. You’ll learn a ton, and stay a million times safer. Check out what’s available to do in Jaipur below:

This post Acclimatizing to India, In Jaipur (Vlog Ep. 29) appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

I spent five weeks in Bali in total (I was meant to be there for eight weeks but I evacuated early), and all of that time I was based in Ubud. I don’t apologize for not staying on other parts of the island; in fact if anything, I apologize that I couldn’t get to know Ubud even better. When I do return to Bali, it will be to Ubud.

This post was originally published in 2017. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content. 

That’s not to say that other parts of Bali aren’t equally (or perhaps more) deserving of my attention. My day trip into Kuta didn’t go so well, but I hear lovely things about many other parts of Bali, and when I return I expect to visit some waterfalls, climb some mountains, and relax on a beach or two.

The attraction to Bali (and specifically to Ubud) was of a spiritual nature, though I wasn’t on any particular quest, and I only took two yoga classes (much to the shock and surprise of many “spiritual” people in Ubud).

I went to Ubud because there are a few spots in the world that seem to attract spiritual pilgrims of all sorts:

• One is the Sacred Valley of Peru (a place I was lucky enough to call home for two years) and to a larger extent the Andes mountains of both Peru and Ecuador (where I also spent time doing “shaman-things”).
• Another is Ubud, the artistic and cultural hub of Bali, and also the spiritual centre of Balinese Hinduism; something that has attracted tourists and spiritual-seekers since the 1930’s.
• The third is India (DUH!) – where I’ve spent the last few weeks, and will be sharing all kinds of information with you about shortly.

This year will have seen me in all three locations; in a poetic and subtle exploration of what attracts people to these “spiritual” places.

Stumbling on a Cremation Ceremony Parade

I’ve written about the importance of ceremony and religion in Bali (see also: Canang Sari – The Ceremony of Life in Bali); it dictates daily life. And although stumbling on a cremation ceremony parade might not be a once in a lifetime opportunity, it’s still a very special event to witness….which you’ll see in the video below.

Ubud Mashup (Vlog, Ep. 28)

I’ve already published quite a few videos about Bali, which I encourage you to watch if you’re interested (you can find a list below). This Ubud Mashup is a simple collection of clips that create a flavour of the place, of driving and walking the roads, stumbling on ceremonial parades, enjoying nice meals, watching rice get planted, and listening to magical wind chimes. Enjoy!

Click here to watch this video on YouTube.

Other Bali Videos

Campuhan Ridge Walk in Ubud

Balinese Painting for the (not so) Artistically Inclined

Why I Evacuated from Bali

Ubud Market – How to Negotiate

My Monkey Forest Commute

Balinese Cooking 101

This post Ubud Mashup (Vlog Ep. 28) appeared first on The Professional Hobo. Please click through to read it in full!

While perusing the various local activities I could enjoy on the Withlocals website, I immediately gravitated towards taking a Balinese cooking class. (Lucky for me, Withlocals agreed to let me have it on the house – though I’d have spent the $35 for the half day course in a heartbeat).

Remember when I took a Balinese painting class with a super cool granddaddy artist named Putu? Well, I enjoyed hanging out with he and his family in their home so much, that I took the cooking class with his daughter and wife.

This post was originally published in 2017. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content. 

I was also joined by a fellow student; a guy from Lebanon who was passing through the area and making the most of his two days in Ubud by taking multiple Withlocals tours. (I must say, if I were pressed for time, I’d likely do the same. I really like these “local tour” platforms; I used a similar one in Japan at Tsukiji Fish Market. 

Balinese Cooking Basics

Although there are many overlaps between Balinese and Indonesian cuisine, Bali has a few tricks up its sleeve with some intrinsically Balinese concoctions, built around a magical combination of spices found in most of their dishes.

The majority of the work is in the preparation; peeling, chopping, grinding, and such. After that, it all comes together pretty quickly. To make daily food preparation easier, a large amount of the spice mix (discussed below) is prepared and frozen in little baggies.

The Aromatics (Spices)

So what of these magical spices? I use combinations of many of these ingredients in much of my own cooking (which is usually of an Asian persuasion), but all together and done in the Balinese way, it produces a unique flavour. The mixture, which is usually ground into a pulp using a stone slab (a flat version of mortar and pestle) is made up of the following ingredients, the specific combination and amounts of which vary by family (everybody has their own “secret recipe”):

• turmeric
• shallots
• ginger
• spicy chili pepper
• red pepper (not spicy)
• coriander seeds
• ginger
• candlenut
• ginger flower
• lemongrass
• and finally, an ingredient that I’ve never seen before and that Yogi didn’t have an english name for, which was what I imagined would be born if a piece of galangal and lemongrass made love.

Mealtime in Bali: A Solo Affair

I grew up in a culture that values sharing meals together. However that’s not the way it’s done in Bali. The food for the day is prepared in the morning, and family members simply go into the kitchen and help themselves when hunger strikes. I found this a bit odd, given the emphasis that Asian culture in general puts on family. But indeed it seems to extend beyond Bali to other parts of Indonesia; I experienced a similar phenomenon while spending three weeks with some families in Jakarta.

Balinese Cooking: Not Just for Women

I was (pleasantly) surprised to discover that the men of Bali also cook. When there is a ceremony (which happens A LOT in Bali), the women are busy preparing the offerings, which means the men are responsible for preparing the food. It’s nice to know that Balinese men can whip up a nice meal as well, although I would guess that outside of ceremony days you won’t see them near the kitchen.

Balinese Cooking 101

Want to see all these magical ingredients come together to make soup, curry, salad, and satay? Then join me in taking this Balinese Cooking Class!

Click here to watch this video on YouTube.

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