{"id":2371,"date":"2011-02-07T06:00:57","date_gmt":"2011-02-07T12:00:57","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theprofessionalhobo.com\/?p=2371"},"modified":"2024-06-19T07:39:19","modified_gmt":"2024-06-19T11:39:19","slug":"taking-the-indian-pacific-train-across-australia-part-five","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theprofessionalhobo.com\/taking-the-indian-pacific-train-across-australia-part-five\/","title":{"rendered":"Taking the Indian Pacific Train Across Australia: PART FIVE"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

What a journey so far! I\u2019m two\/thirds of the way through my 11,000 km journey taking Indian Pacific train across Australia and back<\/span>. After four nights on a train (with a night in Perth<\/a> nestled in there), I\u2019m still three days away from Sydney. And to my surprise, I\u2019m still not bored.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

This post was originally published in 2011. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content. <\/em>
I received a complimentary<\/em> pass from<\/em> Great Southern Rail<\/a> for this journey.<\/em>
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Just landed here? Check out the previous instalments in this series about taking the Indian Pacific:
Part One<\/a>
Part Two<\/a>
Part Three<\/a>
Part Four<\/a>
<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"The<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

DAY SIX<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

In the other cabins, I\u2019ve slept lengthwise along the train. In this cabin, I\u2019m sleeping widthwise across the train. I wonder if this will adversely affect my sleep, but I find it to be about the same; occasionally restless and occasionally blissful.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This night, however, isn\u2019t so blissful. A constant repetitive noise invades my dreams, taking the form of water sloshing against walls, or somebody washing and clanging dishes, or anything in between.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s only when I\u2019m coherent come the morning that I realize the window blinds are making a small racket, clattering between the window panes. (Interestingly later in the day, the train maintenance manager comes by for a chat, and he asks if everything (from temperature to fixtures) has been satisfactory. I mention the blinds in passing, also saying that I\u2019ll just leave them up from here on in to avoid the problem. But that won\u2019t do; while I\u2019m at dinner, he places spacers on the blinds so I won\u2019t be disturbed by them again).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I enjoy breakfast with Sam and Helen (a couple in their early 60\u2019s) from Melbourne. This is Sam\u2019s first time in Western Australia, and he admits to probably being the least-traveled person he knows. \u201cThis trip has been eye-opening and mind-expanding,\u201d he says of this journey into the unknown.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The conversation takes a curious turn when Sam says \u201cAre you on Lonely Planet TV?\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I smile. \u201cNo. Do I look familiar?\u201d It\u2019s coincidental that I\u2019ve just finished filming a travel tv show pilot episode and am about to shoot a full series; I know he doesn\u2019t know me from tv fame (yet). I simply tend to look familiar to people, to the point where I\u2019m often mistaken for somebody else. So I\u2019m expecting to resemble the host of Lonely Planet TV as a result of this question.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Instead, I get a response that stings a little: \u201cNo, it\u2019s not that I\u2019ve seen you on tv. You just seem aggressive and positive like some of the Lonely Planet hosts are.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I blink and ask Sam to repeat what he just said, which he does.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aggressive and positive?<\/em> I\u2019ve never heard those two words juxtapositioned in such a way, and formulated in a sentence that\u2019s not actually intended to be offensive. Yikes! Maybe I was too \u201caggressive\u201d in asking them if I could join them for breakfast.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This particular meal-time conversation being something of a flop, we continue on to discuss innocuous things like the whistle stops the Indian Pacific train makes. I pass on a few of the facts and trivia I\u2019ve gleaned through my journey so far, and Sam and Helen remark that I know more about Australia than they do! I blush and reply as humbly as possible that it\u2019s a function of my job.

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Whistle Stop: Cook<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

I wonder why I always feel a little strange when the train stops. If I\u2019m looking out of the window, I would swear that we are moving backwards once we\u2019re stationery. You get so used to moving forward all the time that not moving at all feels like moving backwards. It\u2019s quite the trick of the eye (and inner ear).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Unlike the stop in Cook a few days earlier<\/a>, today the sun is shining and perfect little white clouds are floating across the sky.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cLadies and gentleman, welcome to Cook,\u201d comes the announcement from the train manager. \u201cThe temperature is a comfortable 19 degrees, and we\u2019ve got nice sunshine with some cloud cover. So in addition to the five people that live here, you\u2019ll get a chance to meet a few million other inhabitants of Cook as well.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A few million <\/em>other inhabitants? I wonder\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2026no I don\u2019t. Flies. As I get off the train for the quick half-hour stop, I salute Cook with what I\u2019ve dubbed the \u201cAussie wave\u201d: a constant gesture of waving the space on either side of my face in order to keep the flies out of my eyes, ears, nose, and mouth.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Stopping<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Cook is an interesting stop when you’re taking the Indian Pacific since it\u2019s one of the world\u2019s most isolated outposts.<\/strong> It\u2019s 1,100km from Adelaide and 1,500km from Perth, and although there are signs of once-formidable habitation, only five people remain here.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In fact, in describing the anticipated stops for the Indian Pacific to some of my Aussie friends, many had no idea where Cook was or why the train would stop there. Besides the point of interest of being such an isolated outpost and something of a ghost town (with a thriving gift shop, of course), it seems to be a stop more for the train than the passengers, as drivers change over and the train is refilled with water.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"the<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n


Back On Board<\/em><\/strong> the Indian Pacific<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI love your hair colour!\u201d I say to a South African woman who I\u2019d come to know as Cynthia. Her hair is a vibrant purplish-red, very similar to a hair colour I once donned.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThanks! It\u2019s completely natural,\u201d she replies with a winning smile.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cReally? Mine too!\u201d I say of my dark purple base colour with blonde and red streaks throughout.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cynthia and I share a lovely lunch together, talking about everything you don\u2019t talk about with strangers (especially from South Africa), including politics, religion, race, and faith. It\u2019s refreshing and uplifting conversation, and I see a kindred spirit in Cynthia. We both remark how we\u2019re sure our paths will cross again, and we have enough faith to know that it will happen without our having to force the process.

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Indian Pacific\u2019s Double-Duty<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

As we chug back across this vast expanse of flat, largely uninhabitable land, I\u2019m surprised at the number of signs of civilization interspersed throughout the desert. I\u2019m also interested to learn of the Indian Pacific\u2019s instrumental role in keeping these remote communities going.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Forrest\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

\u201cLadies and gentleman, if you look out the left side of the train, you\u2019ll see we\u2019re passing through the town of Forrest, evidently not named for its abundance of trees,\u201d the train manager announces over the intercom. He goes on to describe this town with a bustling population of two people who maintain the railway and refuel planes that need to land on the narrow paved airstrip. They even have a \u201cbed and breakfast\u201d for people who drop in (often literally) on them.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"\"\/<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Towns like Forrest, Rawlinna, and Tarcoola wouldn\u2019t survive well without the Indian Pacific, which not only occasionally drops off and picks up passengers who are enroute to these remote outposts for mining or other jobs, but the Indian Pacific is also responsible for delivering the mail and some supplies to these communities.

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Spotting the Wildlife<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

I mention to the train manager that I\u2019m saddened not to see as much wildlife as I had expected. Not one wild camel<\/a> has made an appearance for me and it\u2019s not for lack of looking for them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The train manager explains that usually the wildlife-viewing opportunities aboard the Indian Pacific are terrific, since the train drops moisture on the tracks along the way (grey water from basins and showers are expelled on the tracks). And through arid areas like the outback (especially through the drought that Australia has felt over the last 10 or so years), the train tracks are a great spot for animals to congregate and feed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But this past winter has seen a record-breaking amount of rain, and the outback is uncharacteristically green. When I hear this I smile, since just about all I can see out the window is brown land, with a slightly green tinge only if I squint at it the right way.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"the<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

So unfortunately for me (but thankfully for the drought-stricken land which has now been rained upon) there isn\u2019t the abundance of wildlife I had hoped to see. I thank my lucky stars that I\u2019ve already spotted a number of wedge-tailed eagles, few kangaroos, and an emu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today though, the closest sign to \u201cwildlife\u201d I see is a large rock at the side of the tracks with the word \u201cGIDAY\u201d spray-painted onto it. Who did this?! There\u2019s no road in sight or sign of human life anywhere. Maybe those elusive camels have developed some extra talents in their years of living at large in the outback.

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Disappointing Dinner<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Dinner is a less-than-fulfilling experience with three ladies who are all traveling solo. The woman across from me opens the conversation with the endearing observation \u201cYou eat like an American.\u201d This comment takes me off-guard, and I learn it is because after I cut my food with my fork and knife, I tend to move my fork from my left hand to my right hand to eat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I don\u2019t know if this woman intends her observation to be offensive, but she can\u2019t seem to say anything without painting surly overtones onto each word. I make a humble comment about being taught good manners in this form before changing the topic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But it\u2019s not long before she strikes again: \u201cSo how are racial tensions in Canada?\u201d This sets the tone for the rest of the meal. The two women across from me launch into a series of racial tirades that include comments like \u201cThe Pakistanis are taking over England! Taking over!\u201d which is said with raised voices, spittle flying across the table, and lips curled. I\u2019m then informed that immigrants to Australia have no business keeping to their own circles and should integrate fully, completely, and immediately upon arrival. Considering both these offending women are immigrants to Australia themselves and identify their original nationalities before their Australian residency, it seems hypocritical.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I gracefully leave the dinner table and the spiralling conversation when the topic turns to \u201cAfrican Americans. They aren\u2019t even from Africa. Why do they need to call themselves that? Because their skin is black?! They\u2019re just Americans!\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aah\u2026.even disappointing dinners are fun. You truly never know who you\u2019ll meet on the train. With not a dull moment yet (which is contrary to my expectations), I\u2019m nearing the end of my eight-day journey on the Indian Pacific. Let\u2019s see what tomorrow brings\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Click Here for Part Six of this epic Train Journey<\/a>! <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Join me 2\/3 of the way through my 11,000 km journey taking Indian Pacific train across Australia and back – all to see if I can get bored.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":9737,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[18],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2371","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-australia","resize-featured-image"],"yoast_head":"\nTaking the Indian Pacific Across Australia (AND BACK!): Part 5<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Join me 2\/3 of the way through my 11,000 km journey taking Indian Pacific train across Australia and back - all to see if I can get bored.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.theprofessionalhobo.com\/taking-the-indian-pacific-train-across-australia-part-five\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Taking the Indian Pacific Across Australia (AND BACK!): Part 5\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Join me 2\/3 of the way through my 11,000 km journey taking Indian Pacific train across Australia and back - 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