{"id":6035,"date":"2014-06-02T10:00:42","date_gmt":"2014-06-02T14:00:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theprofessionalhobo.com\/?p=6035"},"modified":"2024-06-19T07:23:22","modified_gmt":"2024-06-19T11:23:22","slug":"week-life-francis-unseen-africa","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theprofessionalhobo.com\/week-life-francis-unseen-africa\/","title":{"rendered":"A Week-In-The-Life of Francis: Unseen Africa"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Francis Tapon has hiked across America four times, walked across Spain twice, and has traveled to 100 counties. He has written two books, Hike Your Own Hike<\/a> and The Hidden Europe<\/a>. He is creating a TV series and book called The Unseen Africa, which is based on his four-year journey across all 54 African countries. He is a TEDx speaker. He has a Religion BA from Amherst College and an MBA from Harvard Business School. Please enjoy this week-in-the-life of Francis while searching out the unseen in Africa.<\/i><\/p>\n\n\n\n

This post was originally published in 2014. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content. <\/em>

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 1 \u2013 Wednesday<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

6:00 AM<\/b> \u2013 Crawl out of my sleeping bag in Morocco proper. Kick Soufianne Ousaadi, my cameraman, to encourage him to wake up. He curses at me in Arabic and I reply with sign language<\/a>: the middle finger. It\u2019s the start of another fun day goofing around with Soufianne. We\u2019ve been traveling for 10 days and we\u2019ve been getting along great\u2014part of our enjoyment is insulting each other.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

8:00 AM<\/b> \u2013 Drive to Samara, a town in the Western Sahara.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

9:00 AM<\/b> \u2013 We slow down at the checkpoint. Morocco (and West Africa in general) has checkpoints just outside every town and a few random spots in between. It\u2019s for safety and control. We tell the police we\u2019re going to tour around Samara. He has a grave look. \u201cHow long?\u201d he asks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cJust for the day. We\u2019ll leave before nightfall,\u201d I tell him in French.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

He winces. \u201cDo you really have to stay long? There\u2019s a bit of tension in the city. There\u2019s been protests last week. We wouldn\u2019t want you caught in the middle of that. It would be better if you leave after lunch. Is that possible?\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cOK, fine. We\u2019ll do our best.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

10:00 AM<\/b> \u2013 We pull aside on a side street and park. I put my wireless mic on. Soufianne discretely prepares the bulk professional camcorder while in the car. When we\u2019re ready, we jump out into the street when there are few people and we quickly film our initial impressions of the city and the experience so far. Soufianne tells me, \u201cDon\u2019t be an idiot and talk too much.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If the police saw us filming, we\u2019d be in trouble because we have no permit and given the tense situation, we\u2019d get scolded even more harshly and probably fined. After a couple of minutes, we jump back in the car and drive off.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

1:00 PM<\/b> \u2013 We have lunch. Camel is on the menu. It has some tomatoes on it and seasoning. It tastes fine, but a bit pricey. We shop for some clothes that Soufianne wanted to buy. He bargains hard and ultimately gets his bou-bou<\/i>\u2014a classic Muslim outfit. While shopping, the police calls Soufianne and they ask, \u201cAre you guys still in Samara?\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cYes.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWhen are you leaving?\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cDon\u2019t worry, we\u2019re leaving soon.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cOK, good.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

2:00 PM<\/b> \u2013 Before leaving I really want to film a billboard of King Muhammad VI\u2014he\u2019s the current king of Morocco. This is gonna be tough. There are police everywhere because the billboard is next to the police station. I\u2019m loitering. This isn\u2019t good. The police are looking at me. \u201cA foreigner is loitering. What\u2019s he doing?\u201d they must be asking themselves. Finally, I interact with a vendor and hide behind a pole just so that the police can\u2019t see me well. I film with my mini camera for a few seconds and then leave.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

3:00 PM<\/b> \u2013 We say goodbye to the police at the checkpoint. They\u2019re happy we\u2019re leaving.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

9:00 PM<\/b> – And we\u2019re off to camp in the Sahara and underneath the majestic Milky Way. I tell Soufianne, \u201cBig day tomorrow, so we have to wake up early, you lazy bum.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Too tired for Arabic, he just answers me in sign language.

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 2 \u2013 Thursday<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

6:00 AM<\/b> \u2013 Crisp clean air and silence are our company this morning, as usual.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

8:00 AM<\/b> \u2013 We head to Laayoune, which is sometimes spelled La\u2019younn. Google Maps (and others) spell it El Ai\u00fan. Regardless, it\u2019s the biggest city in the Western Sahara. It\u2019s a fine seaside city, but we don\u2019t spend much time there. We need to go into the interior to see a friend of Soufianne.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

2:00 PM <\/b>\u2013 We arrive in the phosphate mining town of Boukra or sometimes spelled Bu Craa. We\u2019re hoping to camp with his friend, but he\u2019s got a tiny one room place that already has a friend there. Besides, for security reasons, they don\u2019t want us there since it\u2019s the dorms for the miners. I take a shower there and we go to see the mines.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

6:00 PM<\/b> \u2013 We film as much as we can, but then the road to Guelta Zemmur is closed to foreigners. So we have to backtrack to Laayoune.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

8:00 PM<\/b> \u2013 We camp on the way to Laayounne. Cheaper than a hotel.

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 3 \u2013 Friday<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

8:00 AM<\/b> \u2013 We’re trying to get to Bir Anzane. Why? It\u2019s in the middle of nowhere in the Western Sahara. I like to go to unseen places.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

5:00 PM<\/b> \u2013 We\u2019ve been driving all day, following the stunning coastline and then take a left into the desert. We find a turban-covered dark-skinned man who is trying to hitchhike. We pick him up and hope that he\u2019s not a suicide bomber.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

8:00 PM<\/b> \u2013 Our hitchhiker says that we can camp with him and his boss in Bir Anzane. They manage 600 camels. We leave the pavement as we near Bir Anzane. He says not to veer off the tracks because there are landmines. He shows us what\u2019s left of an exploded mine that went off . . . just a couple of weeks ago. I was hoping he\u2019d say \u201cyears ago.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s dark. We follow a sandy track with our headlights. Mines. Hard not to think of them. Still, Soufianne offers some obvious advice, \u201cDon\u2019t be an idiot and run over any mines.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After 15 minutes, we get to a campsite with a couple of tents up. A guy in military uniform comes out. Am I about to kidnapped? He tells me to come into his tent. He has a turban on that covers most of his head. We enter the tent. He tells us to sit down.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In a few minutes he brings out some . . . tea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

All is well. We sleep well.

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 4 \u2013 Saturday<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

6:00 AM<\/b> \u2013 We wake up as we prepare to track down the camels and give them water. We get into my car with one of his workers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

8:00 AM<\/b> \u2013 After driving off-road in areas where there is \u201clow risk\u201d of having mines, we finally find hundreds of camels. We spend the rest of the day feeding them, giving them water, and making bread in the sand.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

8:00 PM<\/b> \u2013 We sleep in the tent with the camel owners.

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 5 \u2013 Sunday<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

6:00 AM <\/b>\u2013 We pack and leave Bir Anzane and head back to the coast a different way.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

1:00 PM<\/b> \u2013 Lost. But we have a GPS, so we\u2019re not totally lost. There are just many ways to go in the desert.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

8:00 PM<\/b> \u2013 Another camp in the middle of nowhere.

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 6 \u2013 Monday<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

6:00 AM<\/b> \u2013 Head to the coast. We hit a road that takes us there easily.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

8:00 AM<\/b> \u2013 Drive to Dakla, the most touristic city in the Western Sahara.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

1:00 PM<\/b> \u2013 After stopping a few times, we arrive in the beautiful beach town of Dakla.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

7:00 PM<\/b> \u2013 We have dinner and stay with a policeman who is relative of Soufianne. His family adores having visitors\u2014especially the kids.

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 7 \u2013 Tuesday<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

8:00 AM<\/b> \u2013 I take Soufianne to the bus. I kick him in the butt to say goodbye. Then we hug. He\u2019s going back to Ouarzazate, a city in Morocco. I head south to Mauritania! It\u2019s the second African country. One down, 53 to go on my four-year trip through Africa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

To see the process of making bread in the Sahara sand, watch our Kickstarter video<\/a> and spread the word about the project!

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Francis is traveling through the remaining 40 African countries from now until 2017 as part of his tv series and book<\/a> called The Unseen Africa. You can connect with him on Facebook<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0Twitter<\/a>. <\/i><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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