{"id":6058,"date":"2014-06-09T12:39:24","date_gmt":"2014-06-09T16:39:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theprofessionalhobo.com\/?p=6058"},"modified":"2024-06-19T07:23:21","modified_gmt":"2024-06-19T11:23:21","slug":"trekking-lares-hot-springs-peru","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theprofessionalhobo.com\/trekking-lares-hot-springs-peru\/","title":{"rendered":"Trekking to Lares Hot Springs in Peru"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Had I known I’d be sleeping at icy campsites, and pushing my body’s ability to cope with altitudes over 15,400 feet, I might have had second thoughts about the three-day trek from Urubamba (in the Sacred Valley of Peru) to Lares hot springs, 20km away on the other side of a mountain range that we had to climb over.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But I’m glad I didn’t think about it too much beforehand, as not going would have been an even bigger mistake.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

My fearless leader was Miguel, who had already introduced me to some magical spots in Peru, including Huchuy Cosqo<\/a>, Machu Picchu<\/a>, Kinsa Cocha<\/a>, and more. The ultimate motivation for this chosen trek: to soak our sore muscles at the end of it all in Lares hot springs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This post was originally published in 2014. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"With
Pin it for later!<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Day One \u2013 Following the River<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Hiking up from Urubamba, we followed a river up, up, and up some more, threading a valley to the river’s very source \u2013 a series of little lakes and lagoons way up in the Andes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"at
The first half of the 3-day trek follows this river, up, up, and up some more<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"dramatic
Part way up, we can see where we’re headed, threading the valley, as far as we can see (and much further)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n


An Old Way of Life<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Passing through the remote community of Badacancha, I was amazed at how many people in Peru live as they did hundreds \u2013 even thousands \u2013 of years ago. This small community has no road to it, and is a two hour walk to the nearest road. The 10 families who live here largely sustain themselves on the land, tending their gardens and animals and living in stone houses that look hundreds of years old.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Woman
This woman and child collected a small fee (10 soles \u2013 about $4) from us to pass through their community and camp further up the valley. Badacancha community consists of about 10 families, has no roads, and is largely sustainable.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"riverside
One of the riverside houses in Badacancha<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n


The Donkey Trail<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Although we were relatively alone on the trail, we did have company; we passed wranglers with their horses\/donkeys\/mules\/llamas regularly (or rather, they passed us), carrying goods and tending to the needs of various groups camping and trekking back and forth along the trail. Despite occasionally passing these groups, we were quite isolated in our Andean paradise.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"mules
Mules and horses are commonly used along the Lares trek to carry camping equipment and supplies for the journey. The wranglers (who are accustomed to the high altitude) leave camp with the horses long after the trekkers, pass them along the way, and arrive at the next camp with hours to spare.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"steep
From our camping spot, we can see how far we’ve come in the first day….from the very bottom of the valley over 1,000 metres (3,300 feet) below.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n


Camping and Chilling (Literally)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"first
Our first night’s camping spot \u2013 chilly but beautiful<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

We camped at 4,300 metres (over 14,000 feet) and immediately felt the chill when the sun disappeared behind the mountains that surrounded us. The following morning the tents were covered in ice and I felt the effects of the thin cold air.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Ice
After a (very) chilly night, we awoke the next morning to find everything covered in a thin layer of ice. The further up we walked, the thicker the ice got.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n


Day 2: Over the Pass, and Pushing Through<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Day
Day 2: From the campsite…onwards and upwards<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Stamping my feet to (unsuccessfully) ward off the cold, we began the next day’s trek heading ever-higher towards the snowy Sillacasa pass at 4,700 metres (over 15,400 feet). Although I’ve never felt the effects of the Andes’ high altitudes (even at Kinsa Cocha<\/a> which was almost as high), my heart pounded with each step and frequent rests were required.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"snow
Climbing ever-upwards, this is the snow-sprinkled Sillacasa pass which we crossed to get from one valley to the next, at a staggering altitude of 4,700 metres (over 15,400 feet).<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"The
The view from Sillacasa pass of the next valley; reminiscent of Lord of the Rings<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"wranglers
At the pass, we watched wranglers adjust the horses’ loads so they could maintain their centre of gravity for the steep descent.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

From this point onwards the tough work was done; it was just a knee-wrenching descent of 1,500 metres (5,000 feet) into the next valley and onwards to Lares, where the hot springs awaited.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Nora
I’m smiling because I don’t have to climb up any more….it’s all downhill from here.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"looking
Rounding a corner, we could see our lunch spot way down in the valley, where the wranglers already had potatoes frying, veggies boiling, omelets sizzling, and fresh lemonade waiting.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"mule
I love it when the horses pose for photos<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n


Three Days….Into Two<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

\u201cOkay, we have two choices,\u201d started Miguel after lunch. \u201cWe can camp tonight at a beautiful spot about an hour before Lares hot springs, or we can push through and camp at the hot springs tonight.\u201d The sparkle in his eye at the mention of \u201chot springs\u201d and \u201ctonight\u201d in the same sentence revealed his preference, and to me it didn’t make sense to camp only an hour away. I wanted to celebrate the hard work of this trek with a hot soak….as soon as possible.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And so we pushed through, totalling nine hours of walking for the second day, including a 400 metre ascent followed by a 1,500 metre descent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"descending
Down and down we went into the next valley. We followed the valley floor around the corner and further on to Lares hot springs.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"Cuncani
We had to pay another fee (5 soles \u2013 about $2) to pass through the Cuncani community; a widespread community of about 30 families. Although they still live largely sustainably, their lives changed when a road from Lares was built to Cuncani, giving them a whole new level of access to the rest of the world (for better or worse).<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n


Lares Hot Springs<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The decision to push through and finish the trek in two days was a sound one, I thought that evening, while soaking in the hottest of the four naturally hot pools that range in temperature from warm to scalding. I barely remember passing out in my tent and I slept for an unbelievable 11 hours before waking up and heading right back to the hot springs for another soak.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Lares
Our efforts on the second day were rewarded with a much-needed soak in Lares hot springs that night, a good night of sleep, and another soak in the hot springs the next morning.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

If the dirt colour of the water turns you off, join the club. But having been to natural hot springs in Panama<\/a> and Sulphur Springs in Grenada<\/a>, I wasn’t surprised by the opaque brown water, and it smelled much less of sulphur than other hot springs I’ve visited in places like New Zealand and Canada.

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Getting to Lares Hot Springs<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

You don’t have to trek for 2-3 days to reach the isolated valley of Lares (although if you’ve got it in you, I’d recommend it); there are buses from the town of Calca, but I have been warned that it’s a nauseating two-hour journey full of twists and turns. Indeed in returning from Lares hot springs after our trek, we took a car, and although the scenery was a stunning cross between Scottish Highlands and the set of Lord of the Rings, I can see how being in a cramped bus hurtling up and down the bumpy narrow dirt switchbacks might leave a little something to be desired.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Although it wasn’t easy, I loved earning that long soak in Lares hot springs with a three day trek.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Below are a few different ways to experience a Lares Trek or day trip to Lares. I highly recommend hiking in with a guide, as it’s an arduous journey that requires the assistance of porters with mules.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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